08 June 2010

REVIEW: Pizzaface, Brighton



I walk past the relatively new Pizzaface most days, admiring it for looking so different to most other plastic-fronted take-aways in Brighton. It's particularly successful in the design stakes, which of course would appeal to me. Even more tempting however, is the menu. After a peek at their website months ago, I have been itching to try The Bore (pork and boar salami with sliced red onion and mushrooms, £8) and the Pecora (lamb prosciutto and sautéed mushrooms, also £8).

I'm always a bit anxious about ordering take-away on the phone, not because I'm worried that the food will be bad, it's just that I've ordered it probably 3 times in my whole life. The idea of calling someone up for food who then brings it to your front door, while you have a clear view of your own kitchen seems absolutely bonkers to me! But after a few late nights back from work I could see the appeal.



Well they certainly looked good on arrival. First up was the Pecora (above). I have never tried lamb prosciutto, or even heard of it for that matter. Prosciutto to me is pig at it's best - I adore it so was keen to try this unusual lamb version. This was far, far stronger in taste than pig, quite pungent, oddly grey in colour but delicious with it. I could understand why the other topping had been kept to a minimum to let the personality of this prosciutto shine through.

However, we must get back to base-ics. The base of the pizza is king, get that wrong and you may as well forget it. Pizzaface's bases are paper thin, more so than they seem in the pictures. They are probably the thinnest I have come across, and whilst I don't want to chomp down of a deep-dish, I do want to actually eat something. But the real problem was that there was no lightness to the base, instead being tough, chewy, flat as a pancake and close textured. Aside from the air not being there, taste was also lacking. The bases here really do need quite a bit of work really, with both the recipe and cooking techniques addressed.

Sauce-wise, the amount was good although a teensy bit too much basil which is a common problem. Not anywhere near as bad as the time I was subjected to a very unfortunate pizza in Strada (don't ask), where the amount of basil in the sauce was like licking the neck of a heavily cologned gigolo. Not a good memory but a very vivid one.



Anyway, back to Pizzaface and The Bore (above). Much like the Pecora, the topping quality was first class. The boar salami had that dense flavour synonymous with boar and with the sharpness of the red onion and having the chunky mushrooms packed with flavour through pre-sautéeing made for my kind of pizza topping. If I could scrape these toppings off, onto say a base from Adagio, I would be in sheer heaven.

The choice of toppings at Pizzaface have been extremely well considered in balance and originality, not pandering to any odd choices like fruit, or as I saw on one website this week, fish fingers. So I could happy eat 95% of them here. But the foundation of what makes a really great pizza is lacking, which is a real shame and a total missed opportunity for what could possibly be the best take-away pizza in Brighton.

Pizzaface
35 St George's Road, Kemptown
Brighton Bn2 1ED
01273 699082

8 comments:

  1. I agree with you on bases - it's really difficult to get right. I've tried lots over the years and have yet to settle on one in particular. In fact I tried a sourdough-style base the other week and fancied giving that a go.

    Do you have a good recipe for pizza bases Fran?

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  2. Are we allowed to blog about takeaways? I've been wanting to write about my local Pizza place for ages, Pitza Cano - Leeds is awesome I love their pizzas.

    That Lamb prosciutto looks disturbing but very interesting as well. I'll have to keep an eye out for it round here to give it a try.

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  3. @Paul Allowed? It's your blog you can write what the heck you like. As for the lamb prosciutto, I've seen prettier things but very tasty indeed.

    @James I am currently using the recipe from Jamie's Italy at the mo on a stone in the oven. Still tweaking and not 100% though but as good as any recipe I've found so far. Building a pizza oven this year hopefully so that should see things improve!

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  4. Hi,
    I'm the owner of Pizzaface. We're always interested to get feedback as we are a new business and are constantly struggling to improve.
    The major problem we've had in the first few months in consistency and whilst the majority of pizzas are amazing, an unlucky few slip under the radar. Your pizzas seem to have been some of these. Looking at the photos the dough looks too fresh - the yeast doesn't have time to breed and respire to make the dough light and airy, which then means the dough doesn't rise properly, and doesn't cook properly, and it doesn't have the great baked taste. This is a relatively simple problem solved by making your dough the day before which we now always do.
    I agree the base is the most important thing, if you come again, I hope you'll find it has been perfected!
    Thanks
    Pizzaface

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  5. @bertievanderbeek Hi. Well that is good to hear. I will most definitely try you again. And as I said, great design and great quality toppings - if you crack the base you'll be seeing me A LOT!

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  6. It's a crying shame because they're on the right track at Pizzaface but I have to say I think you're right Fran. I've been trying to avoid wheat recently so was like a kid in a toy shop when I realised I could still have pizza - thanks to the gluten free bases. But the sauce just tastes a bit over-reduced to me. And that dried tuna carpaccio needs to be used very sparingly.

    I won't be giving up though - still the best in Brighton by a longshot. And thanks for making the effort with the wheat free bases!!

    Bloody brilliant blog by the way. Love it.

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  7. @GudStuff Hey thanks! It must be tough with the gluten but, as you've found, there are alternatives! The owner left a message above which sounds promising, the right attitude anyway. I shall be giving them another go soon. Good luck in you quest for the perfect Gluten free pizza!

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  8. Those pizzas look delicious - would love to hear an update on the bases if you go again!
    Rebecca

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