tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10893198883018819582023-12-10T18:44:50.761+00:00The Graphic Foodie | Brighton Food Blog & Restaurant ReviewsA Brighton food blog with independent restaurant reviews and guide to the best restaurants, popups, supper clubs and food news in Brighton & Hove.Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comBlogger635125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-46212643540292656812023-12-05T12:42:00.002+00:002023-12-05T12:42:16.199+00:00RECIPE: Italian Brodo (Chicken Broth)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinczjR_T2xa0xGQdmQk8GKar33oofzb5x1XgXClW4O4upvtcjBXlDBs_c-esUoiL4nO21rNG0xIyK8fOSq9QPMRTdb2t16L_drj5ovuq11QOoaKoKin9V_7CFOrdUqe9Y5Fhm4Ca-VoJKFhan_Penr3tFBk_df-85hXIwRh4B5icjOvVQSlKRUmviD8Bu4/s2000/brodo_graphic_foodie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1140" data-original-width="2000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinczjR_T2xa0xGQdmQk8GKar33oofzb5x1XgXClW4O4upvtcjBXlDBs_c-esUoiL4nO21rNG0xIyK8fOSq9QPMRTdb2t16L_drj5ovuq11QOoaKoKin9V_7CFOrdUqe9Y5Fhm4Ca-VoJKFhan_Penr3tFBk_df-85hXIwRh4B5icjOvVQSlKRUmviD8Bu4/s16000/brodo_graphic_foodie.jpg" /></a></div><br />There are some dishes that are more than just food. Comfort, memories, family, heritage... Brodo, an Italian chicken broth, is made when ill, when you have weary travellers arriving, and even when celebrating. A version of this is found around the festive period with mini veal meatballs and even weddings with tiny tortellini.<br /><br /><div>If my kids come home from school and smell that this has been cooking during the day for them, the sound of bags and shoes hitting the floor (ffs) is always joined by excitement and thats-exactly-what-I-wanted sighs. I love knowing this will definitely form part of their childhood food memories. <br /><br />Easy to do with just a little faff.<br /><br />Into a large pot throw:<br /><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1kg chicken drumsticks </li><li>1 onion, halved</li><li>1 tomato, quartered</li><li>1-2 carrots, halved</li><li>2 sticks of celery, chopped in half</li><li>1 tsp whole peppercorns </li><li>Contentious, but I always throw in a Knorr Chicken Pot too. </li><li>Optional: a small piece of brisket or stewing beef. This will enrich but nit essential.</li></ul><br />Cover with about 1.5 litres of water, or juat enough to cover everything. The size and shape of your pot will determine this.<br /><br />Bring to the boil, then simmer gently for 1.5-2 hours. The broth will reduce but don’t let it reduce too much. Remove any scum that forms on top, but I don't tend get much using drumsticks.<br /><br />Turn off the heat and ideally allow everything to cool down a little. <br /><br />Pour the whole lot into a colander over a large bowl. Give the pot a clean them pour the broth only back in, keeping the chicken, bones and vegetables aside. <br /><br />Put some small pasta shapes on to boil (pastina, orzo, tiny tubes) and in another pot boil some finely shredded leafy greens (spring cabbage, cavolo nero, savoy).<br /><br />Meanwhile pick though all the meat carefully, discarding bones, skin, veins. Set aside in a bowl. Lightly shredding any large pieces. If you've added any brisket or beef, chop this up roughly too.<br /><br />Optional: In a separate bowl, using a hand blender, blend one of the reserved carrot pieces, a piece of tomato if that exists still, a couple of celery pieces and a half ladle of broth to make a paste. Add just a heaped tablespoon or two of this back to the broth pan to give a little body to it, but not much.<br /><br />Taste broth for seasoning. May need a pinch of salt but not much. Reheat gently.<br /><br />Drain pasta and cabbage.<br /><br />In large soup bowls add some shredded chicken, pasta, cabbage to each, then top with a few ladels of your hot broth. <br /><br />Add peperoncino flakes or some grated parmesan.<br /><br />Feel 1000% better. Mamma knows best.</div>Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-49704514125813588572022-12-08T16:43:00.006+00:002022-12-09T00:45:28.271+00:00PRODUCT REVIEW: Katto santoku kitchen knife<div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaAU5pPGMHL-spnTYHOqis-6I-LdPxGJgs2ZSYTwi3FST0wW0CsQbUyNA8Il_ujQmgBbNUZgu2bvZZ9hMysD4dwMTDu0KJZdLsoTxQkfTvb-EEy8_DWo5nCtDKffJbn3eazUlwsMrKcov9syaQwLtvmHr5N83eZyN6b1MuQh6rx_RWrKFbEUaXKC1rFg/s1200/20221113_180906.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaAU5pPGMHL-spnTYHOqis-6I-LdPxGJgs2ZSYTwi3FST0wW0CsQbUyNA8Il_ujQmgBbNUZgu2bvZZ9hMysD4dwMTDu0KJZdLsoTxQkfTvb-EEy8_DWo5nCtDKffJbn3eazUlwsMrKcov9syaQwLtvmHr5N83eZyN6b1MuQh6rx_RWrKFbEUaXKC1rFg/s16000/20221113_180906.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I adore knives. Not in a stabby way (at ease ex-husband), but as kitchen kit goes for any keen cook, along with your pans, your knife set is essential and the first area I invested in after replacing all the budget starter home items. Look after them, and they will see you right for a very long time.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">My current knife set is from a brand known for their quality and I’ve been happy with them over the years, but what I have seen an interest in from professional chefs and keen home cooks is a turn towards handmade knives - with beautiful hammered blades and intricate handles made of fine woods.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuZlhFGGmAg1JYTPqu9JNxoDyD9_L7jiW2UPs2neD3R_XtXQ9Dh_6rJNzUtip8CRMZs90IHU9j5W9eqn4wEqAtCUf_uk1Vm4eKxVNeXBmC12ROBLaa0LIyjB0bswvzh1g3IPYc2S2Sga7wy50UNV8kirUhe3Z5iupjphC6eodyfle0d4p1nwkbiO1YLA/s1400/20221113_180343.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuZlhFGGmAg1JYTPqu9JNxoDyD9_L7jiW2UPs2neD3R_XtXQ9Dh_6rJNzUtip8CRMZs90IHU9j5W9eqn4wEqAtCUf_uk1Vm4eKxVNeXBmC12ROBLaa0LIyjB0bswvzh1g3IPYc2S2Sga7wy50UNV8kirUhe3Z5iupjphC6eodyfle0d4p1nwkbiO1YLA/s16000/20221113_180343.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And look how beautiful this <a href="https://katto.shop/">Katto</a> it is - so much character. You have a choice of blade and also wood handle - I opted for the dark Rosewood. This means you need to wash and dry your knives after use but that’s a good habit to have anyway and I’ve always thought wooden handled knives felt better to use.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2xXyr6lO8e1moFIIUfr0J4MZA3txWvuiQ9NrxczY_yPvX-tPSxbeGY4H23En3rjBogpqfJB54tlyVc-NWR_NGXGjv3-eA6hGtJ3ERCWMdWsNzFjO98DZjNync4DQMMzPxYspbJ0H0I0PhxGLroM0Jv8EXuNBadL9IpYL8j0CdOIbfXu8UO1yznszA0g/s1400/20221113_180354.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2xXyr6lO8e1moFIIUfr0J4MZA3txWvuiQ9NrxczY_yPvX-tPSxbeGY4H23En3rjBogpqfJB54tlyVc-NWR_NGXGjv3-eA6hGtJ3ERCWMdWsNzFjO98DZjNync4DQMMzPxYspbJ0H0I0PhxGLroM0Jv8EXuNBadL9IpYL8j0CdOIbfXu8UO1yznszA0g/s16000/20221113_180354.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk-94RUyuLp-gjmxw4AgmNPfid07PxmX-HTJh3AIE-d8oQAdJnI3j83fA6f8utRWmdh8nsZrPfl7a8cVWAcGmpGci7l5_x0UJWvbqo56ESggfJyINSYwyWDyQXCBiFk13ktxePjL4xQLG0vsDxlbQq0Hmo9CDTnmCZtNZ-UgTOLURnBptsWY-I3-DEag/s1400/20221113_180400.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk-94RUyuLp-gjmxw4AgmNPfid07PxmX-HTJh3AIE-d8oQAdJnI3j83fA6f8utRWmdh8nsZrPfl7a8cVWAcGmpGci7l5_x0UJWvbqo56ESggfJyINSYwyWDyQXCBiFk13ktxePjL4xQLG0vsDxlbQq0Hmo9CDTnmCZtNZ-UgTOLURnBptsWY-I3-DEag/s16000/20221113_180400.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Katto knives are available in chef’s knives, santokus, utility, bread and just launched - a 7” agile nakiri.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">My preference for santoku over chef knives is a few years old now, they just feel better to me and I seem to work quicker than with a heavier chefs knife - the downturned point also lends itself to less mistakes. <a href="https://katto.shop/products/santoku-knives-test">The 7.5” Katto santoku</a> is no different - it feels well balanced, robust for heavier chopping (coped well with some tough winter squash) but light and sharp enough to thinly slice onions.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I’ve been wanting to use it for a few weeks for reviewing properly and despite being a rather glamorous item looking stunning on my magnetic rack, I’m happy to report that the Katto knife is very much a functional item for the kitchen and I’m sure going to enjoy using mine on the daily.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Ayk1OFmnVnUoUvzGTKSnjz_Ypy7oHf48g5J1vog5sfyLQ5Cv9tlW8g71M9ySFiBCfcvgS4EC21Ig8mNdCM5DTLl5Vjc6R0X8iOEam9rdn_HSXA4u59Pxy201jpxRAhavZKaMgqXC7jsYy4Gp9Cy7Rv8A2d4U5aF3wfwUFbI_90kcOsiTxeam3gpb0w/s1200/20221115_184033.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Ayk1OFmnVnUoUvzGTKSnjz_Ypy7oHf48g5J1vog5sfyLQ5Cv9tlW8g71M9ySFiBCfcvgS4EC21Ig8mNdCM5DTLl5Vjc6R0X8iOEam9rdn_HSXA4u59Pxy201jpxRAhavZKaMgqXC7jsYy4Gp9Cy7Rv8A2d4U5aF3wfwUFbI_90kcOsiTxeam3gpb0w/s16000/20221115_184033.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUx55PGnRWXJ1uDGa4ayZOfyRMwMQb__3gLHcb3w0onSNTgY4_Gsaj1OzE4U6pSWyGZMqZl-pKWx8qIF7HGtC0JL40DRT057NWk8DGs5hchmi4gCrIiSl9g61c8jhWmBQh81Ofp08YxIDJtph3YjGpT1S5LPF5g6uuHxg022gvst00rjkWsJuvfTXVyw/s1200/20221202_172246_1.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUx55PGnRWXJ1uDGa4ayZOfyRMwMQb__3gLHcb3w0onSNTgY4_Gsaj1OzE4U6pSWyGZMqZl-pKWx8qIF7HGtC0JL40DRT057NWk8DGs5hchmi4gCrIiSl9g61c8jhWmBQh81Ofp08YxIDJtph3YjGpT1S5LPF5g6uuHxg022gvst00rjkWsJuvfTXVyw/s16000/20221202_172246_1.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I haven’t encountered any issues at all with it - you’ll want a smaller knife for more intricate work, but that’s a job for a different knife like their utility, which would make a great pair with this or the chef’s knife.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">This is a super knife, from a lovely brand (read the about us page on their site) with a sustainable ethos.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Extra shout out to their presentation and packaging too - loved the coin tradition, the tote and the attention to detail on the brand was a really nice touch. Along with Julie Andrews, brown paper packages tied up with string are also one of MY favourite things, so I appreciated the whole experience of receiving and unboxing the knife.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Cl5-IhxIl5t/"><b>Watch the unboxing video here.</b></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Also, with the option of personalisation and a nice leather scabbard, I’m sure any keen cook would be happy to find a Katto Knife or two (or a set!) under the Christmas tree this year.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcFEkvKyP4TBxxZyYNFeDJ2UiFyiBvB8teWWEi5pi80M2RAsMZB09s33F_qRfDaChBHZi0TLRXCtDdBC4a-jHEnwrubLh5V2Nimn8VTJg-wiaAC2uKSah8ph-KO2gqZ7F1HYipWfdNYIKEhmtlROhmDAHQcqp666nMN8wr6QbTnAaVaXBymvhHLAJFlg/s1200/katto1.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcFEkvKyP4TBxxZyYNFeDJ2UiFyiBvB8teWWEi5pi80M2RAsMZB09s33F_qRfDaChBHZi0TLRXCtDdBC4a-jHEnwrubLh5V2Nimn8VTJg-wiaAC2uKSah8ph-KO2gqZ7F1HYipWfdNYIKEhmtlROhmDAHQcqp666nMN8wr6QbTnAaVaXBymvhHLAJFlg/s16000/katto1.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://katto.shop/">katto.shop</a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">AD I was sent this item for honest review, words and thought my own.</div>Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-30814642479932511752022-09-02T00:03:00.011+01:002022-12-09T00:41:27.222+00:00REVIEW: X MUSE Vodka<div class="separator"><p style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcHfGGcA-Qg3eCw0uuaGIcMoEvkP6bYBo1hOxFo3e67wuoo0P9cpbDdalYrMBFU_yasUxxefHQQW26OOL-bKwgetnhkDbl9vkoE9WRGBjmJs1FYd1dCcTnbUAgkLv-_pDlSyLdhVjJY6Ep9OIOIsyPTtHolA50tHDH2RdlNIGE8AdVvTpwn5IAoqKXFA/s1000/xmuse-main_gf_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="913" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcHfGGcA-Qg3eCw0uuaGIcMoEvkP6bYBo1hOxFo3e67wuoo0P9cpbDdalYrMBFU_yasUxxefHQQW26OOL-bKwgetnhkDbl9vkoE9WRGBjmJs1FYd1dCcTnbUAgkLv-_pDlSyLdhVjJY6Ep9OIOIsyPTtHolA50tHDH2RdlNIGE8AdVvTpwn5IAoqKXFA/s16000/xmuse-main_gf_01.jpg" /></a></p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="text-align: left;">Gin has had an enormou</span>s boost in popularity over the last few years, at all levels of the market, and for all tastes. <br /><br />But what about vodka? Not a spirit that is so enthusiastically spoken about as a standalone, yet remains a solid staple in cocktails. Enter <a href="https://xmusevodka.com/" target="_blank">X MUSE vodka</a> (pronounced tenth muse) - here to challenge this at the premium end of the market. X MUSE has been created with quality and culture in mind and hails from somewhere not necessarily associated with the spirit. You may be thinking of Eastern Europe, particularly Russia, but this vodka is made in Scotland, yes, famous for spirits, but of the Whisky kind. <br /><br />Taking three years to develop, X MUSE uses water from an ancient aquifer, producing exceptionally pure water, taken from the 100 acre Bennington Estate near Edinburgh amongst a sculptured landscape called Jupiter Artland. (Look at the site and you can see the bottle design influence.) </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglo6ZcEITRhTinvnow94xni0L5o91XlhCk4tw_VgvdY5ktw5Zd5bsP4XvF6KmYE6pBgjaBcJBeepXZQdB-jkP44LR-Wl5xH2gTkSTln9fcltoeaVpECOG79UAs1sFL7TzAN1JXVo2w5sF83AaqzU0o7wrt07dpCJSoblShH2dotl_w3eZgHq2b8mseGA/s1024/6266865_76181eca_1024x1024.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglo6ZcEITRhTinvnow94xni0L5o91XlhCk4tw_VgvdY5ktw5Zd5bsP4XvF6KmYE6pBgjaBcJBeepXZQdB-jkP44LR-Wl5xH2gTkSTln9fcltoeaVpECOG79UAs1sFL7TzAN1JXVo2w5sF83AaqzU0o7wrt07dpCJSoblShH2dotl_w3eZgHq2b8mseGA/s16000/6266865_76181eca_1024x1024.jpeg" title="Photo © Graeme Yuill (cc-by-sa/2)" /></a></div><p><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Georgia, Verdana, Arial, serif; text-align: right;">Photo © </span><a href="https://www.geograph.org.uk/profile/31546" style="background-color: white; font-family: Georgia, Verdana, Arial, serif; text-align: right;" title="View profile">Graeme Yuill</a><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Georgia, Verdana, Arial, serif; text-align: right;"> (</span><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/" style="background-color: white; font-family: Georgia, Verdana, Arial, serif; text-align: right;">cc-by-sa/2.</a>)</span></p>And it’s all steeped in art. If you know your Greek mythology, you recall the Nine named Muses who represented the arts. The Tenth Muse had no name and “represents all that is unseen, not captured, defined or understood.” You’ll cleverly find the brand strap line under the waxed bottle top: ‘Plura Latent, Quam Patent’ (more is hidden than revealed). Nice touch.<p><br /><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkUN3rcekrY-TQLron2l3YjBJHPYvYq7or-iKI2Z7iG-OLMT7MRE9UPHB4MtvWsdpU-E0snxMW3Oow_lTQCQNqWe2PVxMY8r21yzWLizhesVMMlOv1hSqPP2mPEpIbMOWkfrCC_RZfzriWFkc6diTXkDI09QCqwZuGjMVBJt18vGfQV6TmUfL3nMRtZg/s16000/xmuse_detail_gf_01_insta.jpg" /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvsCgUxwknhroL0zwlkFkLOTJ70dX31Y_rzFx6zDgtheO2n6FCxpiQCIE5HMRvcsaQLOEhAcVkGwLRulahATU1hlUEe0NHVMvukFyz6VPqts1_E0BWoSRb6OG6ofF0s7DYP2eTjGknSWOz5qZRnNG7VQazLmQKOTD9IRJqWb9csARde6BAQD-5xHytmQ/s16000/xmuse_detail_gf_02_insta.jpg" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />It’s all rather beautiful, the bottle is stunning sculptural piece that plays with the light, the white wax and textured paper label all exude that feeling that this is not your average bottle of voddy. I doff my hat to the design and marketing teams involved, the brand story is exquisite. You can read more on their website. <br /><br />But to the taste Fran! X MUSE is the first barley blended vodka, inspired by the Whiskey traditions of Scotland. Two heritage varieties of barley are used; Plumage Archer and Maris Otter, prized for flavour, distilled separately and combined to produced this luxurious, rich, smooth vodka. It’s one of the very few vodkas I would drink neat, and is surprisingly characterful/complex. <br /><br />Taste profile: Citrus, apple, cereal and pepper.<div><br /> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqWEwuUmdjDl38ZEZyimzLEnKEFvCafXv6geancxZkGs69GWcqsQhJDpqOpn6KgYQVd2BUeNJsZ4euWh7FM8U5s06Czh2lRjP9uNcR0yt13IRzDsnnML4-FDgKHbRt9PVO3JCy0Btd_sV-Um_bmpbYIL1Twq12cwKS36tsHGfhriDtgZMxvTQYu6Sftw/s1000/xmuse-recipe_gf_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="837" data-original-width="1000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqWEwuUmdjDl38ZEZyimzLEnKEFvCafXv6geancxZkGs69GWcqsQhJDpqOpn6KgYQVd2BUeNJsZ4euWh7FM8U5s06Czh2lRjP9uNcR0yt13IRzDsnnML4-FDgKHbRt9PVO3JCy0Btd_sV-Um_bmpbYIL1Twq12cwKS36tsHGfhriDtgZMxvTQYu6Sftw/s16000/xmuse-recipe_gf_01.jpg" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: left;">As for a cocktail at home, I didn’t want to diffuse this vodka too much so chose to make a Caipiroska , similar to a caipirinha, but prepared with vodka instead of cachaça.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><b>Ingredients</b></p><p style="text-align: left;">• 50ml Vodka</p><p style="text-align: left;">• 2 tsp Sugar</p><p style="text-align: left;">• 1 Lime</p><p style="text-align: left;">• 1/2 glassful Crushed Ice</p><p style="text-align: left;"><b>Preparation</b></p><p style="text-align: left;">1 Cut the lime into wedges and place into shaker.</p><p style="text-align: left;">2 Use a muddler to mix the lime and sugar, not squashing too much or else will become bitter. </p><p style="text-align: left;">3 Add crushed ice and vodka and shake well.</p><p style="text-align: left;">4 Pour shaker contents into serving glass and garnish with a lime wedge.</p><p style="text-align: left;">5 Garnish with a lime wedge.</p><p style="text-align: left;">You can also see it used in some of these delicious sounding cocktails on their website.</p><p style="text-align: left;">Priced at £60 per 70cl bottle.</p><p style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://xmusevodka.com/">https://xmusevodka.com</a></p><p>AD I was sent a bottle for review, words and thought my own.</p></div><div><div><div id="fb-root" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; font-family: "Open Sans", sans-serif, "Segoe UI", Arial, Tahoma; font-size: 13.6px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"></div></div></div>Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-6336717499927773432022-02-19T12:45:00.006+00:002022-02-19T12:45:39.563+00:00REVIEW: Med 22Black, Brighton <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgNLvfG4SEm8YXiqrjstwPDBme5YiQW4mS2dHA-_aZMPaakWpeqFPiBzwIWyZEgd2n1hPa5QACKJItCnHssI8V66W4X83FEfzwbQd_ydWkjHsRh7Z6X-y45QaPsaQ1PnEXDUEzrX1Q9mUOXpz4qE5IzAtkkTYySWs6CTfMlA7NHmjwrEvZx5d8B-RdXbQ=s1600" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgNLvfG4SEm8YXiqrjstwPDBme5YiQW4mS2dHA-_aZMPaakWpeqFPiBzwIWyZEgd2n1hPa5QACKJItCnHssI8V66W4X83FEfzwbQd_ydWkjHsRh7Z6X-y45QaPsaQ1PnEXDUEzrX1Q9mUOXpz4qE5IzAtkkTYySWs6CTfMlA7NHmjwrEvZx5d8B-RdXbQ=s16000" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>I return to one of my Brighton Favourites, Med., who have undergone a bit of a reinvention and relaunched as Med 22Black.<div><br />Along with a lick of darker paint and a moodier vibe, the small plate menu has been updated to include more of the flavours and style from their well received Espina pop up at The Golden Pineapple bar in Ship Street and a stronger focus on the drinks menu. <br /><br />You'll still find the sunny, Mediterranean vibes everyone has come to love, but with more prominent Asian influences and more edgy pairings, with some junk food inspo thrown in for good measure. Sounds like a fusion disaster, but somehow it works, and it works very well. <br /><br />Occasionally the experimentation and drive for innovation is pushed a bit too far or misplaced; the impressive bone marrow Yorkshire pudding, packed full of succulent beef and sat on a green pond of East End Liqour, utterly delicious in itself had no place on the menu here (sorry chef Will).</div><div><br />The Marmite and furikake dressing on the hispi cabbage was a wallop of intense saltiness that was a touch too much. The delicate beauty of artichokes were sadly engulfed in the flavours of refried bean and tomato salsa. But we let them off, because without pushing the boundaries, you can't have the creative cooking that results in dishes like tuna crudo, uplifted with kumquat and avocado. Or silky, umami rich hoi sin glazed aubergine nor the tomato and blood orange salad with olive oil ponzu. And dammit, the cheeseburger tartare, something that goes against everything I thought I believed in in food, is a plate licking must order with it's tangy Maccy D sauce nailed.</div><div><br /></div><div>But respect to classic flavours are still honoured here. I challenge you to find a better taramasalata in town - velvety and decadent. Perfect for the prawn crackers served with it and better with their delicious airy bread. I loved seeing a classic gnoccho fritto from the Emilia Romagna region, exactly how you'd find them there, pillow light and nestled simply next to cured meat. And fat juicy prawns were rightly left in the safe hands of Basque cooking and a piquant pil pil sauce.</div><div><br /></div><div>Don't miss the drinks, impossible to choose from the cocktail list from the seasonal serves to the house classics. My sherry Monocle aperitif was the perfect way to kick off dinner. Leave the car at home and dive into the wine list too, carefully selected but extensive with some interesting natural and low intervention wines. We chose an orange wine, Casa Balaguer Tragolargo Blanco, crisp and floral with a pleasant fizzy farmy funk expected from the naturals.</div><div><br />Polishing off the feast, a giggly rhubarb trifle topped with smile making sprinkles. If you can't have fun with dessert, where can you?<br /><br />As always, they have created food I want to eat, and even food I didn't know I wanted to eat. The menu is almost irrelevant because to me it doesn't matter, I'd happily try everything. Come with a group, sample it all. <br /><br />Med. I loved you, Med 22Black, I love you more.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjmrzof0uhXu7jbbYe1NL_z2gW3NRVEjZZ2yx8g2v4rPQ-e2IDBH8l9HB1pZvl4Yin-Lf15CDv33wfwP5-iZHVcYpcBiaGxI4KsKppmwexMCVgSEnBMtOyQMV01_1CYOAqXGqwu_KhbI-vS7caPR8tb_Ya8gyummiYyxeiVa7V_vP-JJRbiQy71ppxPww=s1600" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjmrzof0uhXu7jbbYe1NL_z2gW3NRVEjZZ2yx8g2v4rPQ-e2IDBH8l9HB1pZvl4Yin-Lf15CDv33wfwP5-iZHVcYpcBiaGxI4KsKppmwexMCVgSEnBMtOyQMV01_1CYOAqXGqwu_KhbI-vS7caPR8tb_Ya8gyummiYyxeiVa7V_vP-JJRbiQy71ppxPww=s16000" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjoXJWZZAiQbIHxXCtJyYjyfS_qjXjgI0paDoVOpTpk3uXwT4S7G-tGgEsIRR21NjttHIA1WlSQibQpopUqKzAQYpy0xY6vYzCttoTqyCLYoqd1LFnht_csFo3qLRQ3am8ajwyiCYbDC4eSXWQCpTiOpv0zFuX3vpRfho_Lrv9J0ws15rwqlA4wPAPcCg=s1600" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjoXJWZZAiQbIHxXCtJyYjyfS_qjXjgI0paDoVOpTpk3uXwT4S7G-tGgEsIRR21NjttHIA1WlSQibQpopUqKzAQYpy0xY6vYzCttoTqyCLYoqd1LFnht_csFo3qLRQ3am8ajwyiCYbDC4eSXWQCpTiOpv0zFuX3vpRfho_Lrv9J0ws15rwqlA4wPAPcCg=s16000" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgv1S28YIo4yQnxH3d95yxGkrwxyAT1ARREJE5O_fU9Mv0kef5MD15r7eDmW_TgLHEANALekypzAsh75mwMDmvP4UnJ-a9RKUbWvuivco6wioWEHMDyu57jUROVepfuNd0HlwS9OzqBSaw00EqFCotPcfNtmAY_v9W-JsAgGRA9JzHoHUMHQhfPG8g3gg=s1600" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgv1S28YIo4yQnxH3d95yxGkrwxyAT1ARREJE5O_fU9Mv0kef5MD15r7eDmW_TgLHEANALekypzAsh75mwMDmvP4UnJ-a9RKUbWvuivco6wioWEHMDyu57jUROVepfuNd0HlwS9OzqBSaw00EqFCotPcfNtmAY_v9W-JsAgGRA9JzHoHUMHQhfPG8g3gg=s16000" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEivJaoXaJ-H_DXkdc-5ZOGDXi4VXmMq_nqpupHPVyO-PpML_bQzH5uBWZ8fl8xyHd-dSdZ8ytPeBRB0A1jy9yDuyN-KQY_aUKPi36RUuBkhk1x4i57FffSGOX40e2qQtmhu32jDn4jt3K2_ihw1Tf0CwHknbYsRU_4Odi6ID8YluLJHjmJD3VSYm_lqWg=s1600" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEivJaoXaJ-H_DXkdc-5ZOGDXi4VXmMq_nqpupHPVyO-PpML_bQzH5uBWZ8fl8xyHd-dSdZ8ytPeBRB0A1jy9yDuyN-KQY_aUKPi36RUuBkhk1x4i57FffSGOX40e2qQtmhu32jDn4jt3K2_ihw1Tf0CwHknbYsRU_4Odi6ID8YluLJHjmJD3VSYm_lqWg=s16000" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgMGPS1_WMB-kZtlndAkfK7TdFA9XLKKnwHEu7IMYmonUqI7rlyy-rxq02iLkT18x0q3nE70x7H6KAGFhvNWyxGDZfKwsmGAlNjO8SASeKarlFcmMoGMK9ajRXLeiwoK3kC3N8dxqnT0mRbMiUthErt24yIXPHNCsIpvtbyubvmgFs4MIAosv6qzcAIdQ=s1600" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgMGPS1_WMB-kZtlndAkfK7TdFA9XLKKnwHEu7IMYmonUqI7rlyy-rxq02iLkT18x0q3nE70x7H6KAGFhvNWyxGDZfKwsmGAlNjO8SASeKarlFcmMoGMK9ajRXLeiwoK3kC3N8dxqnT0mRbMiUthErt24yIXPHNCsIpvtbyubvmgFs4MIAosv6qzcAIdQ=s16000" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhWzMaw9TbOcF4BxsXJMNrZ5vE-h3FyaKScVSDWNRihsKSy1RuukSmsS6FRbcSmYRWZrko4V5qhf77JADCIjfvs-dkozJ9Ij7Rt2KQuNYOprX2RBFDWG76AAoKufMUYSSPfPyosJjEVeSshkHF7U9XW-2T-y3M6uDjdcnFuiBPS5LMbTF5KEmD4C4VXAw=s1600" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhWzMaw9TbOcF4BxsXJMNrZ5vE-h3FyaKScVSDWNRihsKSy1RuukSmsS6FRbcSmYRWZrko4V5qhf77JADCIjfvs-dkozJ9Ij7Rt2KQuNYOprX2RBFDWG76AAoKufMUYSSPfPyosJjEVeSshkHF7U9XW-2T-y3M6uDjdcnFuiBPS5LMbTF5KEmD4C4VXAw=s16000" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhF5wLqzXVWJyLPssmJJDflSnr1i9Gk-4UbfXKkkZd1kH3ZFYnVojZXZYRyJ5OOFmUJ0yKJDDLSxDf_reALt4dbvIBVVGjlf1gAbql_rTOyRM1nXv24hWnxupANK3O1tPnsXfXyFGL4LyxS-9OH819BGLjys8Afc7CYMvFXXZE4th0PgzXwdXrFRDhyOQ=s1600" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhF5wLqzXVWJyLPssmJJDflSnr1i9Gk-4UbfXKkkZd1kH3ZFYnVojZXZYRyJ5OOFmUJ0yKJDDLSxDf_reALt4dbvIBVVGjlf1gAbql_rTOyRM1nXv24hWnxupANK3O1tPnsXfXyFGL4LyxS-9OH819BGLjys8Afc7CYMvFXXZE4th0PgzXwdXrFRDhyOQ=s16000" /></a> <br /><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">I dined as a guest of Med 22Black. Words and thoughts, as always, my own. </span></div><br /></div>Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-7048135401045687812020-10-21T11:25:00.000+01:002020-10-21T18:23:44.846+01:00REVIEW: Wild Flour pizzeria, Ovingdean, Brighton<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zo9FSjgaDgg/X44O7re0hDI/AAAAAAAAeFE/Ht75aR_fuSkZNczSJm3h6VCMtHQMt0SMACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_pepperoni.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zo9FSjgaDgg/X44O7re0hDI/AAAAAAAAeFE/Ht75aR_fuSkZNczSJm3h6VCMtHQMt0SMACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_pepperoni.jpg" /></a></div><br />Totally off the radar is a pizzeria tucked away in Ovingdean. A place I've walked and run past many times, the only nod to it a small wooden hanging sign. I'd assumed this was just another food truck in someone's garden or a pop up of sorts. But no, turn the corner and you'll find a beautiful little restaurant, which actually sits in the location of the former <a href="https://www.mybrightonandhove.org.uk/new-contributions/the-olde-vienna-cafe">Old Vienna Cafe</a>. It's surrounded by dahlias, fairy lights and trees and beyond adorable. </div><div><br /></div><div>Whilst the restaurant itself is closed during Covid restrictions, delivery and pick up is available and remains immensely popular, turning out an average of 150 pizzas a night in high season. I live for these quirky back street discoveries, totally unexpected and exceeding expectation.</div><br />First things first, the 36 hr prove dough is unique. Neapolitan at heart, yet crisp with a French influence. Owner and former chef Chris Phillips describes the core of the cornicione almost croissant-like and I see what he means. Those that find Neapolitan too soft and prefer a crisper base this is the one, but the all important chew is still there too - I've not had a pizza quite like it. It's specifically been crafted to travel better for delivery (makes sense as that's their core business) and the oven is spectacular too - a proper, roaring wood fired beast. <br /><br />Also noteworthy is the stealth provenance at play. There's almost an insane attention to detail here which pizza thrives on. Being a simple product it leaves no margin for error or corner cutting - skill, process and your ingredient quality are for the World to see which is why I love it so much. Easy to do, difficult to master.<br /><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-anp1z2MYrqM/X44O7dltMTI/AAAAAAAAeFA/EeFgUSmVGysKHM6XBn7E3lzbTb_8aAvBACPcBGAYYCw/s1600/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_ocean.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-anp1z2MYrqM/X44O7dltMTI/AAAAAAAAeFA/EeFgUSmVGysKHM6XBn7E3lzbTb_8aAvBACPcBGAYYCw/s16000/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_ocean.jpg" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>As always I try a simple topping to gauge a pizza - a Napoletana or a Margherita. The menu is unusual in places so The Ocean One was closest with a tomato base, fior di latte cheese, anchovies, capers and roasted chilli flakes. That base is the absolute one; light, airy, chewy, tasty...everything it should be but even better. A good measure of a good pizza is that you should be easy able to eat the whole thing and not feel like you're going to keel over, and I was able to wolf this down with ease. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LdjtZrGZLGU/X44O5wfyLxI/AAAAAAAAeEs/B6NgC5g_grUnSB88hTLswI4HKBuYYqodQCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_detail.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LdjtZrGZLGU/X44O5wfyLxI/AAAAAAAAeEs/B6NgC5g_grUnSB88hTLswI4HKBuYYqodQCPcBGAYYCw/s16000/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_detail.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>On The Pepperoni One a Hungarian pepperoni is used over an Italian one because of the intense smoke and nothing like the greased slick sausage you'd typically find. </div><div><br /></div><div>Looking at the menu, there's a touch to every ingredient and the first time I've felt the need to try the more creative options. Although my first visit was an invite, I knew I had to return pronto.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YqOKeyxqdO8/X44O6R-VZwI/AAAAAAAAeE4/S0rIp5mSmV4fZLtA6lpXENj4t4AMt96eACPcBGAYYCw/s1600/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_hawaiian.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YqOKeyxqdO8/X44O6R-VZwI/AAAAAAAAeE4/S0rIp5mSmV4fZLtA6lpXENj4t4AMt96eACPcBGAYYCw/s16000/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_hawaiian.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Despite my very, very strong opinions on Hawaiian pizza this was the first time in my life I was convinced to try one, and no I wasn't drunk or being at held at gunpoint. My first visit I'd point blank refused but Chris came out with the maple glazed pineapple that is pre roasted in the wood oven. I knew then that this was not your average pizzeria.</div><div><br /></div><div><div>Cue the Marks and Spencer's sexy music... "This isn't pineapple pizza, this is Wild Flour pineapple pizza...". They cook the ham as a joint and by roasting the pineapple it means you're not chugging down on chunks from Del Monte. Pre roasting removes the juice and whilst it remains sweet, it's subtle, stickier, slightly candied and with the quality ham is really quite a delicious thing.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PV8zMumy3Sw/X44O6DNEQWI/AAAAAAAAeE0/nG1JWB1WfVoctkDf6Ke9R22oerK1n27DACPcBGAYYCw/s1600/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_garlic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PV8zMumy3Sw/X44O6DNEQWI/AAAAAAAAeE0/nG1JWB1WfVoctkDf6Ke9R22oerK1n27DACPcBGAYYCw/s16000/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_garlic.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Hell we may as well break down all my barriers now. Garlic bread - another insane thing commonly found on menus that weirdos order as starters to a pizza along with the likes of dough balls and chips. But here, the butter is sous vide and garlic infused before it hits the dough, altering the burning point and avoiding that acrid taste. Truly a surprising highlight on the menu and a must order.</div><div><br /></div><div>And on and on; mushrooms are baked in the oven with balsamic reminding me of my Italian aunt's preserved ones, chilli flakes are roasted...the halloumi salad I had, the cheese had been marinated in paprika, honey and black pepper before a stint in the wood oven, imparting a glorious sweet, sticky chew. </div><div><br /></div><div>My limit was reached with the special, where they go REALLY out, this time The Chilli Dog One with gourmet hot dog sausage, ground chilli, lightly pickled onions, American mustard, bacon crumb. I have no doubt that the gourmet junk food brigade would be all over this one and the chilli alone was delicious as I scooped it up - give me a bowl of this any time. On a pizza? Too far for me. They've also had an Indian pizza in the past that proved popular, inspired by the Goan dish Dal Makahni and was 6 months in development. You know what? I'd probably order it.</div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YkXXp1UHDjE/X44O47DbarI/AAAAAAAAeEk/Ckf-9_szBHE1TFcoWJ6clzieIc4JdPt5wCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_dessert1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YkXXp1UHDjE/X44O47DbarI/AAAAAAAAeEk/Ckf-9_szBHE1TFcoWJ6clzieIc4JdPt5wCPcBGAYYCw/s16000/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_dessert1.jpg" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6-96wDtGJzo/X44O44LVBbI/AAAAAAAAeEg/TKgHHoCiZBgNJU99zvKMeOnGWUq-BzA7QCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_dessert2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6-96wDtGJzo/X44O44LVBbI/AAAAAAAAeEg/TKgHHoCiZBgNJU99zvKMeOnGWUq-BzA7QCPcBGAYYCw/s16000/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_dessert2.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dessert pizza - ha she'll hate this right! I despise those awful, sickly Nutella pizzas to end flabby garlic bread and pizza doughball dinners which you'll finish digesting sometime in 2022. Yet here, the dough is shaped into a fluffy doughnut shape, yes with Nutella, but with homemade candied orange, roasted pistachios to give a saline edge and a side of marscapone. This had a huge Sicilian vibe, think cannoli filling, which I was all over. Ridiculously good, grown up and totally different. </div><div><br /></div><div><div>Starting 3 years ago in a back garden further up the road, and now at home here for a year with a full scale wood fired pizza and permanent premises, the dough has been a labour of love. As much as this would make any Italian grimace, Wild Flour are not tied to tradition, they do what feels right which is often misguided approach in the wrong hands. But here the intention is right and they have the craft and vision to turn pizza on its head. </div></div><div><br /></div><div>I knew on my first visit but returned to make sure and can safely say this really is the best pizza in the Brighton area. People of Ovingdean I apologise - your secret is out. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RykjOHwdCFY/X44O7imFdQI/AAAAAAAAeFI/moltMxnPSGotBNTuzckQg3i7ZnPoH7PvgCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_sign.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RykjOHwdCFY/X44O7imFdQI/AAAAAAAAeFI/moltMxnPSGotBNTuzckQg3i7ZnPoH7PvgCPcBGAYYCw/s16000/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_sign.jpg" /></a></div><div> </div><div><b>Website: </b><a href="https://www.wildflourpizza.co.uk/">www.wildflourpizza.co.uk</a><br /><b>Address: </b>Greenways, Ovingdean Brighton BN2 7BA</div><div><br /></div><div>I was invited on the first occasion but returned as a paying customer. Words and thoughts, as always, my own. </div></div>Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-20531162793140998872020-10-20T11:36:00.002+01:002020-10-21T18:25:25.528+01:00Top 7 Best Pizzas in Brighton<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cv3hoJu5cEU/X44gfjkZUQI/AAAAAAAAeL4/7BPDYEmaW6sj4yMLWr9KttIoF4Zsi-3jQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_ocean.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cv3hoJu5cEU/X44gfjkZUQI/AAAAAAAAeL4/7BPDYEmaW6sj4yMLWr9KttIoF4Zsi-3jQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_ocean.jpg" /></a></div><p>Since my my <a href="https://www.thegraphicfoodie.co.uk/2015/02/gf-guides-best-and-worst-pizza-in.html">2015 best pizza in Brighton round up</a> (the most popular post on the blog ever) I've eaten a lot of pizza around these parts. Regular readers will be well versed about my passion for pizza, even featuring in Daniel Young's Where To Eat Pizza tome. Its craft and simplicity never gets old and well, it's just a comforting, lovely thing to eat with family, with friends, with dates, with just yourself. There's never a bad occasion for a pizza. </p><p>Quite a few new players have stepped up in more recent years which has raised the dough game, but not always enough to knock the established pizzerias off their perch though. And although the original post listed some absolute howlers (and boy, were there some true horrors), I've got my positive pizza pants on, and sticking to only the good in this update.</p><p>A word on full reviews and images - some may be quite historic but pizzerias are typically my "night off" or family nights. Pizzerias are the restaurants I frequent the most, and I normally don't repost full blog reviews but I'm confident in knowing the ones I have linked to have remained consistent. </p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">1. Wild Flour </span></h2><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">(<a href="https://www.thegraphicfoodie.co.uk/2020/10/review-wild-flour-pizzeria-ovingdean.html">Full review</a>)</span></h3><div><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zo9FSjgaDgg/X44O7re0hDI/AAAAAAAAeFc/PISW0ad7pQEAHMVVC5ssUQJ-ORrBooevgCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_pepperoni.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zo9FSjgaDgg/X44O7re0hDI/AAAAAAAAeFc/PISW0ad7pQEAHMVVC5ssUQJ-ORrBooevgCPcBGAYYCw/s16000/wild_flour_pizzeria_gf_pepperoni.jpg" /></a></div><p>Top spot goes to Wild Flour, tucked away in Ovingdean, the attention to detail is immense. Each element is crafted - they even roast the chilli flakes. This remains the only time I've ever willingly eaten a Hawaiian pizza - hams are baked in the wood oven and hand carved, the pineapple maple glazed and roasted.</p><p>The 36 hour dough is a Neapolitan with a croissant-like twist and cooked in their magnificent wood fired oven. </p><p>Topping vary from the safe to the wild. Don't miss their wood fired doughnut shaped pizza for dessert. </p><p><b>Price of a Napoletana:</b> £12<br /><b>Home Delivery?</b> Collection and Delivery</p><p><b>Website: </b><a href="https://www.wildflourpizza.co.uk/">www.wildflourpizza.co.uk</a><br /><b>Address: </b>Greenways, Ovingdean Brighton BN2 7BA</p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">2. Fatto a Mano </span></h2><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://www.thegraphicfoodie.co.uk/2015/09/review-fatto-mano-pizzeria-brighton.html">(Full review)</a></span></h3><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9qiD7PVRPlQ/X44W17BoTjI/AAAAAAAAeGw/9v9ZPsObH4QJjDleUM-EVRNEoAbN3A6ugCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/fatto2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1588" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9qiD7PVRPlQ/X44W17BoTjI/AAAAAAAAeGw/9v9ZPsObH4QJjDleUM-EVRNEoAbN3A6ugCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/fatto2.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Brighton's major pizza player and the one we owe to introducing good pizza to the masses of the city. Authentic and a temple to true Neapolitan pizza close to home in their simple but stylish restaurants.</div><div><br /></div><div>I've lost count of the pizzas I've had here, my staple order of a Napoletana never fails, washed down with a Hugo or a glass of wine or five, it remains one of the best value places to eat. The menus are refreshingly short, toppings traditional, and the staff are glorious. </div><div><br /></div><div>Equally good for date night or family meal (but shame they dropped the kids eat free deal), they hit the ground running and have stayed true to their ethos since. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Price of a Napoletana:</b> £8.50<br /><b>Home Delivery?</b> Collection and Delivery<br /></div><p><b>Website: </b><a href="https://www.fattoamanopizza.com/#home">www.fattoamanopizza.com</a><br /><b>Address: <br /></b>London Road: 77 London Road, Brighton BN1 4JF<br />North Laine: 25 Gloucester Road, Brighton BN1 4AQ<br />Hove: 65-67 Church Road, Hove BN3 2BD</p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">3. Yamino</span></h2><div><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JmUPzwqIZuA/X44WWL8iRtI/AAAAAAAAeGU/VOo3KPuoZ-s1XhZY1Q0ZJyB1NAAK9m3EwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/yamino.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JmUPzwqIZuA/X44WWL8iRtI/AAAAAAAAeGU/VOo3KPuoZ-s1XhZY1Q0ZJyB1NAAK9m3EwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/yamino.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div>Bringing us something totally different to Brighton, Yamino serves up Roman pizza by the slice. </div><div><br /></div><div>Lighter, airier and crisper than Neapolitan, and sold <i>al taglio</i>, or by the weight back in Rome but here in handy portions so you can mix and match a few to try out the excellent toppings. You'll need 2 or 3 at least for a good feed but you'll want to try more. </div><p>They are always playing around with flavours but don't miss the potato and onion one!</p><div><b>Price of a Napoletana:</b> £n/a<br /><b>Home Delivery?</b> Collection </div><div><b>Website: </b><a href="https://yamino.co.uk/">www.yamino.co.uk</a><br /><b>Address: </b>4A Montpelier Place, Brighton, BN1 3BF </div><div><br /></div><div><h1 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">4. Nuposto </span></h1><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://www.thegraphicfoodie.co.uk/2015/06/review-nu-posto-brighton.html">(Full review)</a></span></h3><div><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QPVPbTgbLrg/X44WoFghnVI/AAAAAAAAeGg/a18Lu02AbGIQvYJPSvu6bQ1prSJmQrkCACLcBGAsYHQ/s1806/nuposto.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1806" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QPVPbTgbLrg/X44WoFghnVI/AAAAAAAAeGg/a18Lu02AbGIQvYJPSvu6bQ1prSJmQrkCACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/nuposto.jpg" /></a></div><p>I think Nuposto remains one of the most underrated pizzerias in Brighton. For me the dough is exceptional. So good you'd almost never know their ovens were gas - the chew and the leoparding is consistently on point and the toppings on the more traditional options good quality and the perfect balance. </p><p>They get lost for their tourist trap location, garish branding and too much diversity on their menu as they launched into offering pasta as well as a hefty starters list which masquerades them as an anglo-Italian rather than the real deal. </p><p>Look past that, don't get distracted on the menu and you won't be disappointed. Particularly great for family dining. </p><p><b>Price of a Napoletana:</b> £8.50<br /><b>Home Delivery?</b> Delivery <br /><b>Website: </b> <a href="https://www.nuposto.com/">www.nuposto.com</a><br /><b>Address: </b>14 West Street, Brighton, BN1 2RE</p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">5. Purezza </span></h2><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://www.thegraphicfoodie.co.uk/2019/06/review-purezza-pizzeria-brighton.html">(Full review)</a></span></h3><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0HV6LVZYp0w/X44QqYFpc0I/AAAAAAAAeFo/jHCWlA_66qUKjFjlshY5WpcQqX8g5Q4WQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/purezza_brighton_gf_pizza2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0HV6LVZYp0w/X44QqYFpc0I/AAAAAAAAeFo/jHCWlA_66qUKjFjlshY5WpcQqX8g5Q4WQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/purezza_brighton_gf_pizza2.jpg" /></a></div><p>I'll hold my hands up and say I was more than skeptical about an exclusively vegan pizzeria. What is pizza if not meats and cheese? But they make their own "mozzarella" with Italian brown rice and have developed the best vegan cheeses I've tried.</p><p>Toppings are creative - inspired by their meat alternatives and clever use of vegetables. But at the heart of any good pizza is good dough and here it is pillowy and light, with the fattest cornicone in town - it's a delight to eat. You can also opt for hemp or gluten free bases so this place makes what can be an off limits food accessible to all. <br /><br /><b>Price of a Napoletana:</b> n/a prices around £13<br /><b>Home Delivery?</b> Delivery </p><p><b>Website: </b> <a href="https://purezza.co.uk/">www.purezza.co.uk</a><br /><b>Address: <br /></b>Brighton: 12 St James’s Street, BN2 1RE <br />Bristol: 79-81 Gloucester Road, BS7 8AS<br />Camden: 45-47 Parkway, NW1 7PN <br />Hove: 86-87 Western Road, BN3 1JB </p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">6. Nanninella </span></h2><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://www.thegraphicfoodie.co.uk/2020/01/review-nanninella-pizzeria-brighton.html">(full review)</a></span></h3><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p2xQwqDeXvs/XhuvMpSfKzI/AAAAAAAAXIo/mO2lpprwDLYnteyoWv1vAfPw51S7pmKxgCPcBGAYYCw/s2000/naninella_pizza_napoletana.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="2000" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p2xQwqDeXvs/XhuvMpSfKzI/AAAAAAAAXIo/mO2lpprwDLYnteyoWv1vAfPw51S7pmKxgCPcBGAYYCw/s16000/naninella_pizza_napoletana.jpg" /></a></div><p>Although the oven is gas, Nanninella make a darn fine pizza. This adorable restaurant makes you feel like you're on holiday in Italy and the flavours remain traditional and authentic. </p><p>Also good are the range of Neapolitan street food starters. </p><b>Price of a Napoletana:</b> £10<br /><b>Home Delivery?</b> Delivery <div><b>Website:</b> <a href="https://www.nanninellapizzeria.co.uk/">www.nanninellapizzeria.co.uk</a><br /><b>Address: </b>26 Preston Street, Brighton BN1 2HN<h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></h2><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">7. VIP</span></h2><div><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4aXUy2mH3JE/X44Wv9HQV1I/AAAAAAAAeGk/TrTcmlIcTzE0akHOB1k-vmGDyap0MxKawCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/VIP.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1143" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4aXUy2mH3JE/X44Wv9HQV1I/AAAAAAAAeGk/TrTcmlIcTzE0akHOB1k-vmGDyap0MxKawCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/VIP.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><p>I've only recently returned to VIP and I think they've improved a lot. Bases are more robust and well formed and toppings a better ratio. </p><p>Family run, truly Italian and a very nice little restaurant just by Old Steine that makes you feel like you've fallen into an Italian delicatessen. Which...you kind of have. </p><p>Their signature oblong shaped pizzas are cooked in their wood fired oven and most of the cheeses and meats come from their own farm in Naples - a huge bonus, and you can taste the quality. I do like the dough here, slightly more robust than others but always enjoyable. </p><p>The menu is bewilderingly huge with over 60 pizzas *scream* plus a full Italian food menu in addition. You can also purchase their produce to take home. </p><div><div><b>Price of a Napoletana:</b> £7.25<br /><div><b>Home Delivery?</b> Delivery </div><b>Website:</b> <a href="http://pizzavip.co.uk/">www.pizzavip.co.uk</a></div><div><b>Address:<br /></b>Brighton: 19 Old Steine, Brighton BN1 1EL</div><div>Saltdean: 67 Lustrells Vale, Saltdean BN2 8FA</div></div></div>Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-31924417767318807742020-09-25T10:25:00.000+01:002020-09-25T10:25:12.537+01:00REVIEW: Wild Flor, Hove<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dJnj9DL6AfY/X2kp_vLxrLI/AAAAAAAAdog/_j0T_wvifocsgxpONbY51FooCpFP3sPNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/wild_flor_hove_potato_gf_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dJnj9DL6AfY/X2kp_vLxrLI/AAAAAAAAdog/_j0T_wvifocsgxpONbY51FooCpFP3sPNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/wild_flor_hove_potato_gf_01.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Wild Flor, modestly pitched as a neighbourhood restaurant, is an unquestionably classy little joint. The bistro-inspired interior is stripped back with just enough elegant touches and wine is given as much status as the food.<br /><br /><span style="text-align: left;">And rejoice; this really is a restaurant for people who enjoy eating. You're not left picking at curious chef-foraged garnish, components are not 10cm apart on the plate - instead the big flavoured dishes here draw you in like a hug. </span></div><p>Ingredients are used at their seasonal peak, so much so that by the time you read this, the chalkboard menu will have undoubtedly changed, but the style and tone of the classic dishes are consistent.</p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uFddbeJ_SO0/X2kqABSRywI/AAAAAAAAdok/AFluxoEWv2I16pN5IHim_NzPPxiTrjAAwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/wild_flor_hove_toasts_gf_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uFddbeJ_SO0/X2kqABSRywI/AAAAAAAAdok/AFluxoEWv2I16pN5IHim_NzPPxiTrjAAwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/wild_flor_hove_toasts_gf_01.jpg" /></a></p><p>Simple dishes like unassuming pea and goat cheese toasts are sophisticated and surprising and sweetcorn soup was given a perfect partner in a salty and spicy nduja focaccia.</p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VFWpOmVyCw8/X2kp-aNlaEI/AAAAAAAAdoQ/Hn53tMpk1yQCIWBF8JfectrhLaarw6z7ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/wild_flor_hove_brandade_gf_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VFWpOmVyCw8/X2kp-aNlaEI/AAAAAAAAdoQ/Hn53tMpk1yQCIWBF8JfectrhLaarw6z7ACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/wild_flor_hove_brandade_gf_01.jpg" /></a></p><div>Salt cod rings alarm bells for me, the ghosts of putrid <i>baccala</i> past haunting me from my childhood, but here, as the classic dish <i>brandade</i>; soft, silky and creamy with olive oil and potatoes given a summery makeover with ripe tomatoes and fragrant herbs. I'm a convert. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pL32JMUeRIc/X2kp-U8GGtI/AAAAAAAAdoU/tJlg0C4LMOo_sSMSWKOBCMgUyN3hNBd7gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/wild_flor_hove_chicken_gf_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pL32JMUeRIc/X2kp-U8GGtI/AAAAAAAAdoU/tJlg0C4LMOo_sSMSWKOBCMgUyN3hNBd7gCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/wild_flor_hove_chicken_gf_01.jpg" /></a></div><div><br />Roast chicken leg, is again, a humble dish elevated to something more with seasonal runner beans, a rich chicken broth and a brightening aioli. This is true comfort food, and I'm totally here for it. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2661nun_HUw/X2kqAbzP3UI/AAAAAAAAdoo/GSA6NlEFClsKxLBEb4979C6nfoU0y1ixQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/wild_flor_hove_trout_gf_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2661nun_HUw/X2kqAbzP3UI/AAAAAAAAdoo/GSA6NlEFClsKxLBEb4979C6nfoU0y1ixQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/wild_flor_hove_trout_gf_01.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Lighter was the dish of pink trout, cooked within seconds of perfect, a balance of fresh cucumber and earthy notes from horseradish to complement this fish.</div><div><br />Never miss the potato dishes here though. Mark II of the crispy beef fat potatoes that were a rave from their launch, the <i>Pommes Anna </i>are even better, more refined and a gorgeous side dish to anything. Don't kid yourself that you'll share. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UZgjAEhoiJM/X2kp_dusbSI/AAAAAAAAdoY/LI1l9UH7otYJ1rIM9nct1UsNtTFuWkCkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/wild_flor_hove_fig_gf_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UZgjAEhoiJM/X2kp_dusbSI/AAAAAAAAdoY/LI1l9UH7otYJ1rIM9nct1UsNtTFuWkCkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/wild_flor_hove_fig_gf_01.jpg" /></a><br /><br />One thing I've noticed here is that desserts are very grown up and tend to be herbal and fruit based rather than sticky and sweet kind - a good thing in my book. The gooseberry fool leant toward savoury, with the unmistakable tartness of gooseberries. A small rice pudding with jammy figs and fig leaf oil was equally as good, and would be perfect with a dessert wine. </div><div><br />Service is something that deserves a mention. Effortless and casual, yet finely tuned and exactly on brand for the food in terms of knowledge to help diners navigate the menu and wines.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DmZd8ROp2f0/X2kp_kh4eDI/AAAAAAAAdoc/zydS0xitIEkMYj2vA2pyCG7Eb89GoJ_zgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/wild_flor_hove_menu_gf_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DmZd8ROp2f0/X2kp_kh4eDI/AAAAAAAAdoc/zydS0xitIEkMYj2vA2pyCG7Eb89GoJ_zgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/wild_flor_hove_menu_gf_01.jpg" /></a><br /><br />From their opening in 2018, Wild Flor were an instant hit, landing them a well-deserved number 3 spot in the local restaurant awards and gaining national coverage where Brighton sometimes gets overlooked. Founders Robert Maynard, Faye Hudson and James Thomson have all come from the front line of the best hospitality in Brighton. They know their onions as well as their patch and have created a place that this city seemed to have needed. </div><div><br /></div><div>New to the team however is head chef Chris Trundle who joins them from Michelin-starred Manfred’s in Copenhagen and Lyle’s in Shoreditch, along with sous chef Laurence Kinghorn-East who began his career at acclaimed Gingerman Group in Brighton before taking positions at the Michelin-starred kitchens of Matt Gillanat The Pass and with Merlin Labron-Johnson at Portland in London and latterly at Osipin Bruton, Somerset.</div><div><br /></div><div>The kitchen changes haven't altered the strong ethos and style of Wild Flor, but seems to have pushed them that little bit further forward. Dishes appear more polished and refined and I have a hunch that this will evolve further.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SZAklb5-Lg4/X2kp-SJYFaI/AAAAAAAAdoM/oVXhSXY2-NcXMZtZbyzrTdF97ln5oKkLQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/wild_flor_hove_bill_gf_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SZAklb5-Lg4/X2kp-SJYFaI/AAAAAAAAdoM/oVXhSXY2-NcXMZtZbyzrTdF97ln5oKkLQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/wild_flor_hove_bill_gf_01.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><p><a href="https://www.wildflor.com/">wildflor.com</a></p>42 Church Road <br />Hove BN3 2FN</div>Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-86115485603696088232020-09-21T23:06:00.001+01:002020-09-22T17:07:13.364+01:00The Italian Wine - Save 15% on the range of small production Italian wines<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hnl-4ADIwho/X2TYe-a5cMI/AAAAAAAAdg8/0deHiAJrr18AKVz0NcSXE9VWEYmDcQ5pACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/theitalianwine_gf01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hnl-4ADIwho/X2TYe-a5cMI/AAAAAAAAdg8/0deHiAJrr18AKVz0NcSXE9VWEYmDcQ5pACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/theitalianwine_gf01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">2020 has changed a lot of things for us, including our buying habits. A natter with my mate, who just happens to be a consumer behavioural specialist (oooh), agreed - we are buying less, but better where we can, and investing in our homes both in a practical way and enriching our experiences whilst there too. Makes sense, we’re stuck indoors more so why not! And it’s not just the big extension or garden landscaping - small purchases from those really posh candles, luxury beauty, to cooking kits from fine dining restaurants, quality foods and better drinks…anything to fill the void of restricted freedom, or maybe we’ve saved a fortune not going on that overseas holiday.</div><br /><a href="https://www.theitalianwine.co.uk/">The Italian Wine</a> is a new delivery service offering unique collection of limited production wines handpicked from small production vineyards in Italy. Often these come with a hefty price tag but because of TIW’s buying power direct from the vineyard, you get them at a much better cost. Based in Brighton, but with national coverage, the local/Italian link was a perfect fit for me to share with you.<br /><br />Italian wine is brilliant (yes I would say that) but like everything you consume from this country it often comes with a story or passion behind it, be it the source of the ingredient or a multi-generational link. There are many niche grape varieties and small producers, Italian wine is really more than just Montepulciano or Prosecco. The wines come with a back story and technical information if you are interested, which you can use to impress/bore your mates with (limited to 5 as this goes live - thanks Boris) or just enjoy it, but the knowledge of provenance really adds to a product’s appeal to me. Yes I am that person that drives 126km<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prc50Uod_vQ"> for a particular truffle.</a><br /><br />I tried a bottle of the <a href="https://www.theitalianwine.co.uk/product/pinot-nero-rose-v-s-q/">Pinot Nero Brut Rosé from Conte Vistarino</a>. Carlo Giorgi di Vistarino introduced the Pinot Nero grape from Burgundy to Oltreò Pavese, the north-west Italian region of Lombardy, between 19th/20th century. So successful, the region remains to this day Italy’s largest Pinot Noir cultivation area.<br /><br />The Vistarino family have gone on to improve and hone their wines since the work of Carlo Giorgi di Vistarino in 1850, gaining well deserved awards and recognition. Leading the winery into the present day is refreshingly a woman from the family, impressively named Ottavia Giorgi Vimercati di Vistarino, a big plus for me and something I hope to read about more. <div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8NOW4_CWanc/X2TYfS8ERGI/AAAAAAAAdhE/jl04MBc9g54T-rVLgViS9zQiy8x5QfIiACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/theitalianwine_gf03_lo.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8NOW4_CWanc/X2TYfS8ERGI/AAAAAAAAdhE/jl04MBc9g54T-rVLgViS9zQiy8x5QfIiACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/theitalianwine_gf03_lo.jpg" width="640" /></a><br /><br />The Pinot Nero Brut Rosé is produced exclusively with Pinot Nero grapes using the Charmat Method (which Prosecco production uses). The colour is gorgeous, a soft peach pink and has notes of red fruit, cream and a touch floral with good, crisp acidity.<br /><br /><div>This wine is perfect for the last hurrah of summer, alfresco dining and lighter meals, particularly seafood, or just enjoying in the sun as an aperitif. At £13.95 it’s a very good price, for a very good wine.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R-7pfzsNdhY/X2TYfgS73OI/AAAAAAAAdhI/sn51ZKsyzO4qEWhllBVcjwGVQuYqFGdvACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/theitalianwine_gf04.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R-7pfzsNdhY/X2TYfgS73OI/AAAAAAAAdhI/sn51ZKsyzO4qEWhllBVcjwGVQuYqFGdvACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/theitalianwine_gf04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br />I’ve been given a discount code so you can enjoy 15% off The Italian Wine range. Visit <a href="https://www.theitalianwine.co.uk/">https://www.theitalianwine.co.uk</a> and enter the code THEGRAPHICFOODIE.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cOHg840XAcw/X2TYejRd9GI/AAAAAAAAdg4/fejLneg0_fUVP0lVoxOba800SxKkWNwDACLcBGAsYHQ/s859/Asset%2B1%25402x-8.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="392" data-original-width="859" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cOHg840XAcw/X2TYejRd9GI/AAAAAAAAdg4/fejLneg0_fUVP0lVoxOba800SxKkWNwDACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/Asset%2B1%25402x-8.png" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div><div>AD I was sent a bottle of wine for review, words and thought my own. Post contains an affiliate code. </div>Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-2239285161707710262020-09-02T13:55:00.005+01:002020-09-02T14:03:03.320+01:00REVIEW: Med. restaurant, Brighton<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-405gofu7Zow/X0lymOO4UYI/AAAAAAAAdE0/VsqEv8ZqIUImmVKwiK4V276ipGbdrFYsACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/med_gf_01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1300" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-405gofu7Zow/X0lymOO4UYI/AAAAAAAAdE0/VsqEv8ZqIUImmVKwiK4V276ipGbdrFYsACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/med_gf_01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Med is the Brighton restaurant I've been waiting for. A swathe of casual eateries have popped up in the city during Covid times and, hand on heart, my enthusiasm had been waning for local food for the first time in decades. Because, if I've been craving anything right now after a spot of enforced abstinence from restaurants, it's going to an actual restaurant. With napkins, plates, nice wines, a bit of pampering and food you eat with, you know, cutlery. </div><p>Despite Covid, we have also had a large hole in our dining arsenal for simple, but elegant Mediterranean food. But Med has arrived with sunny small plates of holiday memories, which is what we all need right now, particularly those mourning the loss of their summer holibob abroad. </p><p>Although I visited on the opening weekend and my rule of not reviewing until a few weeks have passed, due to common teething issues until a place beds in, plates and opinion have been pretty consistent from the off here. The people behind Med are by no means new kids on the block, having held up a pretty strong local presence with Wolfsmouth and their numerous pub popups, as well as the slicker small plate operation at Paradiso Social. All of that is now concentrated into this new spot and their delivery seems rather faultless.</p><p>If you're an eye roller to the small plate format, this could well change your mind. Here it truly does work and you can mix and match to your heart's content without creating either a monstrosity of a meal nor a colossal bill. </p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F7IL6MEcSWg/X0lync8BFrI/AAAAAAAAdE8/zVNjTbwfA3EjDaTO9RvXnZTPXBohvFVCwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/med_gf_034.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1300" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F7IL6MEcSWg/X0lync8BFrI/AAAAAAAAdE8/zVNjTbwfA3EjDaTO9RvXnZTPXBohvFVCwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/med_gf_034.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p>Grown up hummus was given a pop of flavour from the unquestionable flavours of crunchy dukkah sprinkled on top, and scooped up with their excellent focaccia is an easy way kick off to things here, washed down with one of their cocktails from the short and sweet menu - a very good negroni sbagliato hit the spot for me. </p><p>The main "big dish" option is a market fish of the day. A simple grilled fish to share is a thing of beauty and today the choice was plaice, one of my favourites. De-boning whole fish at the table is an enjoyable ritual, so glad we were left to our own devices with it. Add in the patatas bravas and charred artichokes and courgettes and that's a meal complete. </p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vWI9QUBf18E/X0lyofIUEAI/AAAAAAAAdFE/aloDUJAMO4QTG-ar1Dua-9JDkjp-JmgxwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/med_gf_06.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1300" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vWI9QUBf18E/X0lyofIUEAI/AAAAAAAAdFE/aloDUJAMO4QTG-ar1Dua-9JDkjp-JmgxwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/med_gf_06.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jFEBvMDUU6I/X0lymh89l1I/AAAAAAAAdE4/GgA74xSxn0g2eOYmHiGHIzW8TN6QyZK2wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/med_gf_03.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1300" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jFEBvMDUU6I/X0lymh89l1I/AAAAAAAAdE4/GgA74xSxn0g2eOYmHiGHIzW8TN6QyZK2wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/med_gf_03.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p>Of course don't stop there though. Dish of the night for me were clams with chorizo in a fragrant wine broth, served with a spoon I imagine, not to serving the clams with but to ensure you drink up every last drop from the bowl. Do that.</p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fwGaeLXeRUA/X0lymF02l2I/AAAAAAAAdEs/flPBW2_9wkYL0mBpmev4jLeAEUd_Key7QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/med_gf_02.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1300" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fwGaeLXeRUA/X0lymF02l2I/AAAAAAAAdEs/flPBW2_9wkYL0mBpmev4jLeAEUd_Key7QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/med_gf_02.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p>Portuguese style chicken is worth the order, a gooey chourico croquette and piquant romesco.</p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-31P72HKGkUM/X0lynnBjJ5I/AAAAAAAAdFA/Y8huVVpePTYqatStzY2-h620Cacg5--pwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/med_gf_05.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1300" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-31P72HKGkUM/X0lynnBjJ5I/AAAAAAAAdFA/Y8huVVpePTYqatStzY2-h620Cacg5--pwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/med_gf_05.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p>Most surprising was the cantaloupe melon dish. I've had thousands before, mainly depressing fridge cold wedges at wedding receptions, but this was a head turner; dressed up with avocado and cured cucumbers, with a combination of gorgeous herbs making for a light, fresh, sweet and delicious dish.</p><p>Wines have been treated equally well with a carafe working out the same cost as half bottle so you can work your way around the list a little with your meal. The list is nicely curated and unpretentious too. </p><p>Dining here was a true delight actually, and it wasn't just the thirst for returning back to restaurants. It really is good full stop; the attention to detail is everywhere. Crowd pleasing, simple food, which hits that sweet spot of being well executed but relaxed and priced honestly. </p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-napASzB4cjY/X0lyooiOSaI/AAAAAAAAdFI/Zhmdm-Ie0bUMVZX0pkSsAqKna1vknLUFgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/med_gf_07.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1300" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-napASzB4cjY/X0lyooiOSaI/AAAAAAAAdFI/Zhmdm-Ie0bUMVZX0pkSsAqKna1vknLUFgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/med_gf_07.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><a href="https://www.medbrighton.co.uk/">https://www.medbrighton.co.uk/</a><br />2/3 Little East Street<br />Brighton. BN1 1HTGraphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-3515699868806865582020-01-22T12:26:00.000+00:002020-01-24T13:46:11.011+00:00REVIEW: The Ginger Dog, Brighton<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MOgqxklDlOo/XiZDnE-EviI/AAAAAAAAXYE/fO1Mx9vsbWQqtQDAPe6oakYTi_RSEiocwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ginger_dog_brighton_graphic_foodie_cod2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MOgqxklDlOo/XiZDnE-EviI/AAAAAAAAXYE/fO1Mx9vsbWQqtQDAPe6oakYTi_RSEiocwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ginger_dog_brighton_graphic_foodie_cod2.jpg" /></a></div>
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The Brighton dining scene is crazy, even I can't keep up at times. Openings, closings, pop ups, residencies, collabs, start-ups, non-starters, and often don't get to a place before they shut the doors. The night before this I was in a box fresh opening being assaulted by a 100 dish strong menu, service from the textbooks of Faulty Towers and a tongue curling sauce that featured in almost every dish (I can't vouch for the dessert, I wasn't going to find out). It was new and packed to the rafters with excited diners...for now. It's easy to be carried away with novelty, but where the truly good stuff is often found is in ones that have survived the years.<br />
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And OGs of Brighton restaurants will always be The Gingerman Group, flying their flag since 1998. The Ginger Dog may have taken time to stand tall next to the Man, Pig and Fox (and Flint House) as the more casual sibling of the bunch, but I think it's very much ready to stand on its own four feet.<br />
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Refurbed with a more moody tone; less quirk, more luxe, it speaks volumes about the quality of the evening and food you can expect.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VYBtNEpeVZA/XiW5JZn6bDI/AAAAAAAAXRw/D7iKARid6rUGaTx8HXJHw9oCpNGSdhP3gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ginger_dog_brighton_graphic_foodie_cocktails.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VYBtNEpeVZA/XiW5JZn6bDI/AAAAAAAAXRw/D7iKARid6rUGaTx8HXJHw9oCpNGSdhP3gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ginger_dog_brighton_graphic_foodie_cocktails.jpg" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r-w8oEf3yU0/XiW5KsHm-aI/AAAAAAAAXSE/w2L4N8yy_A4vg8kUe1U4jDRWszJqbKQ4ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ginger_dog_brighton_graphic_foodie_nibbles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r-w8oEf3yU0/XiW5KsHm-aI/AAAAAAAAXSE/w2L4N8yy_A4vg8kUe1U4jDRWszJqbKQ4ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ginger_dog_brighton_graphic_foodie_nibbles.jpg" /></a><br />
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Don't overlook the snacks, even if you're fully dining; A classic hummus is given a sultry souk make-over with ras el hanout spicing and a lively, grassy green olive puree. Absolutely delicious dunked with fat soldiers of fried gluten-free bread. As I'm building myself up to being the leading local authority on margaritas (hells, everyone needs a hobby) I had to order for research and can vouch for the fact it's a good one. Lip puckeringly sour and the ideal aperitif to gently browse menus with. If you, however, prefer your drink like any good woman; pretty, cute, yet stealthily dangerous as hell, then the raspberry and lychee martini is a good choice, like drinking a Jo Malone candle, in a very good way.<br />
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You can tell the group have worked hard on their drinks menus throughout the restaurants, particularly the cocktails. You won't find showy garnishes like clouds of candy floss to navigate your philtrum around, just a carefully curated list of drinks as good as their food, yet another art most miss the mark on.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QnvFeEOGMho/XiW5JmikG-I/AAAAAAAAXR0/KvCgO5rCnHk45FPdQohaw42BniZOqe6NwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ginger_dog_brighton_graphic_foodie_cauliflower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QnvFeEOGMho/XiW5JmikG-I/AAAAAAAAXR0/KvCgO5rCnHk45FPdQohaw42BniZOqe6NwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ginger_dog_brighton_graphic_foodie_cauliflower.jpg" /></a>Surprisingly good was a vegan starter of fried, spiced cauliflower. This often overlooked veg was amplified with a perfectly acidic and spicy cucumber kimchi, cooled with the smooth cashew and miso puree.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rl63O7tj498/XiW5KWa9xtI/AAAAAAAAXSA/c5hs-c0aOPwue0fIL5XxvSypSd1E1ZVnQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ginger_dog_brighton_graphic_foodie_egg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rl63O7tj498/XiW5KWa9xtI/AAAAAAAAXSA/c5hs-c0aOPwue0fIL5XxvSypSd1E1ZVnQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ginger_dog_brighton_graphic_foodie_egg.jpg" /></a><br />
Whilst that dish may have screamed January 2020, my Duck yolk with gently spiced duck leg ragu sat on top of fried bread was the opposite end of the spectrum; unctuous, rich and decadent in a classic, yet modernised way.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P7J7zNQf4_w/XiW5LV5-ITI/AAAAAAAAXSM/dPbJW-MzYLwRwo5-7pTsoANcv8A2pcq1QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ginger_dog_brighton_graphic_foodie_steak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P7J7zNQf4_w/XiW5LV5-ITI/AAAAAAAAXSM/dPbJW-MzYLwRwo5-7pTsoANcv8A2pcq1QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/ginger_dog_brighton_graphic_foodie_steak.jpg" /></a>Talking of classic, can you really beat a good steak and chips? The Salt-aged Delmonico steak, translated to rib-eye in this instance, juicy and flavour loaded with possibly the best chips in East Brighton, prob the whole city. Simple is wonderful, if it's the best it can possibly be and this really was.<br />
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Showcasing more of the Ginger Dog's creativity however, was the roast cod with a substantial cauliflower steak, clementine, fennel, hazelnut dressing. Whilst I found the dense puree a little murky, the fresh, clean flavours of fennel and clementine were enough to brighten the dish and bring back the balance.<br />
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To finish, I chose a silky white chocolate delice with orange and thyme, any risk of sickly sweetness levelled out with a herbal tone, and I always welcome that in a dessert. The kitchen didn't flinch either at making up a dairy free pudding, they transformed the pineapple clafoutis effortlessly.</div>
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However, don't dare leave without trying the salted caramel martini. They are well known for their drinking desserts, I'm sure they'd be a protest if they ever took this particular one off the menu, and after finally trying one, I'd be painting up a placard myself. It also reminded me, being in my 'hood, that I should use the bar here more for drinking and save myself a shlep into town every now and then.<br />
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The Gingerman Group touch everything with class. It's all rather relaxed but service, environment and touch points of the meal are always well considered and elegant. Their formula of running successful restaurants despite a challenging time for hospitality is testament to their experience and confidence to stick to what they do, yet evolve only when they need to, whilst resisting the fads and trends, in order to create a brand that diners can trust in. Whilst the Ginger Dog has been tweaked, it is still, if not even more so, very much part of the family brand.<br />
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This may not be the cheapest pub meal in town, but it will exceed your expectations in terms of quality and finesse, and is the standard of what premium modern pub gastronomy should be.<br />
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<a href="http://thegingerdog.com/">The Ginger Dog</a><br />
12 College Place,<br />
Brighton BN2 1HN<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">I dined as a guest of The Ginger Dog. Words and thoughts, as always, my own. </span></div>
Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-49691078167174127342020-01-16T11:13:00.000+00:002020-01-16T11:13:05.400+00:00REVIEW: Nanninella Pizzeria, Brighton <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Brighton's love affair with pizza continues, and you won't hear any complaining from me. I've even had to fire up a separate to eat list on my phone's notes app just for pizzerias. (Everyone has a to-eat list, right?) There are three new spots that I needed to try, three! Never would I thought I'd see the day where I couldn't keep up with my pizza schedule.</div>
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Anyway, top of this list was Nanninella in Brighton's revived restaurant row, Preston Street. Any new restaurant worth its salt builds up interest with social media tasters and they did a very good job here. Followers were brought along for the ride to see murals being painstakingly painted and the general graft of building a restaurant from scratch.<br />
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And because everything in Italy has to have significant meaning, Christ, refer to pasta shape names alone, the name "Nanninella" was taken from a traditional Neapolitan dream book, where each dream is given a specific number. The building number on Preston Street is number 26 so this dream is of Nanninella; a moniker for St. Anna, mother of the blessed Mary and protector of families.<br />
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Lucky as other dreams in the book include breasts, bedpans, death, nude women and thankfully they didn't move into number 16 or else their restaurant would be called "Bum". I digress.<br />
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I don't normally go for starters before a pizza but these seemed too good to miss. A mixture of stuffed fried Neapolitan street food was a delight to find on the menu; panzarotto (mashed potato balls with chesse), zeppoline (dough balls with seaweed), frittatini, calzocini and the more wider known arancini. Delicious and perfect with an aperativo, but something to dip them into would have been welcome.<br />
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Meatballs (I was with Rosie and god forbid we don't go whole hog with ordering) were traditionally made with coarse breadcrumbs, but these were sadly too cloying, dense and dry. Certainly not like my mamma makes.<br />
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Despite that, I will say that the selection of starters sound so good you could come here for these, reimagined as small plate dining. Parmigiana, a side of friarielli (broccoli hybrid), a caprese salad and some sgugnizielli (dough strips topped with tomatoes and basil) is a decent meal to wash down with one of their well-priced reds.<br />
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Anyway, the main draw is of course the pizza. The oven is electric (too much grief from the council for a wood burning one) but domed and traditionally built, so you do get results close to the real deal, but I'm yet to be convinced of electric mimicking wood entirely.<br />
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The pizzas checked a lot of boxes with the typical Neapolitan soupy centre, great leoparding, but I'd say oven temperature was a bit low so the cooking time was a little long resulting in a dryer base. We're talking seconds probably, but hey, I'm a pizza geek. Shame for me that I don't have the same understanding of the share market, eh. The crux of it is this is a good pizzeria, hugely enjoyable, generous toppings, good quality and balanced. I chose the Napoletana, my staple choice, and I was treated to quite a lot of capers and anchovies, resulting in a desert-like thirst the next morning but the suffering was worth it.<br />
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Nanninella will do well; it was chock full of Italians when I visited, a good sign, prices are spot on, service is charming, and the interior is a delight with cute booths, hand painted tiles and lots of lovely details (the painted ceilings in the loos are adorable). It just has that loving touch of an independent that the chains, even the small ones, can't compete with.<br />
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pg/nanninellapizza/posts/?ref=page_internal">Nanninella</a><br />
26 Preston Street<br />
Brighton BN1 2HN<br />
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Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-77526926404625455572020-01-07T22:55:00.002+00:002020-01-07T23:00:24.436+00:00REVIEW: The Coal Shed, Brighton (Brunch)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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New year resolutions eh. My inbox is flooded by restaurant veganuary invites (I'm ignoring you all), #dryjanuary is in full swing, my social feeds are promoting every diet under the sun and I'll be joined by tens of extra runners on the hills that will tail off before February, leaving me on my own again. (Great, because deep down, I really hate people.) But in amongst all that is somewhat of a backlash with #NewYearTrueMe and endless self love memes. Wince-worthy maybe, but I'm all for this new antidote to this month long macro guilt and pressure. Enjoy yourself in moderation all year round I say. Eat that cake, order those fries, drink the wine...and savour this gratuitous plate of meat. For breakfast.<br />
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I've been drooling at the pictures of The Coal Shed's brunch menu on the social media feeds. Headline act is of course this Surf n' Turf and in the flesh, it still commands a gasp.<br />
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And knowing what awaited me, I had purposely starved myself short of an espresso, rolling into the freshly refurbished restaurant at noon ravenous. Being a Saturday also made it entirely permissible to order cocktails - plural. Hell, let your hair down love. <br />
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It kind of feels like stage fright, the pause of not knowing where to start, but the plump, soft mussels cooked with nduja seemed a good a place as any quickly followed by the tiger prawns and scallop and pork belly skewers.<br />
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The flavour of the maple-cured Tamworth bacon chop, king of chops, was immense and a smart addition to make the dish more breakfast, along with the two fried eggs and smoked black pudding. However, when I think of The Coal Shed, I think steak and the salt aged sirloin didn't disappoint. The charcoal grills give the meat those delicious charred edges and undeniable smokey flavour whilst sealing in all that juicy goodness.<br />
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There's plenty of choice for your two sides; crisp, slightly charred broccoli with garlic and chilli or an iceberg wedge with blue cheese and stilton for a bit of greenery. For those blasé about carbs or mortally hungover; beef dripping chips, truffle mac n’ cheese or mash with burnt ends. I chose one from each camp. Balance innit.<br />
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At £32.50 per head the Surf n' Turf platter may be at the top end of what you'd normally spend on brunch (lighter options are available) but along with hearty portions, quality is paramount here, so confident in both their produce and cooking, that they don't shy away from simplicity. Thoroughly enjoyed, I don't know of a more luxurious, or decadent brunch in this city.<br />
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And this ethos is evident throughout all their menus, wine selection and cocktails. The new decor is elegant, as moody and sexy as ever, a good eye for taste and refinement but still on-brand for an upmarket steakhouse and date night gold.<br />
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God, I need that run now though.<br />
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Brunch served Saturdays only 11am-4pm, alongside the a la carte menu.<br />
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<a href="https://www.coalshed-restaurant.co.uk/">The Coal Shed </a><br />
8 Boyce's Street<br />
Brighton BN1 1AN<br />
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also at<br />
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One Tower Bridge<br />
London SE1 2SE<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">I dined as a guest of The Coal Shed. </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">Words and thoughts, as always, my own. </span><br />
<br />Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-60078144621672842852019-09-25T11:03:00.001+01:002019-09-25T11:09:36.968+01:00REVIEW: Franco's Osteria, Brighton & Hove<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Ah, Franco's...that intimate and romantic little Italian you've been meaning to try for ages, but it's that bit of Hove that escapes your mind post 7pm. And I'm the same. I can't recall how many times I've banked that memo in my mind, probably from the days they still used to put the Italian Disney red and white checked tablecloths out. But when I speak to resident Hovites in the area, they are fierce in their protection of their 'hood restaurant. A good sign.<br />
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And it's a lovely place to come. Stripped back, simple, rustic, yet utterly laden in charm. The kitchen in full view from your table. Salami hang in the windows. I'm glad I'm finally here.<br />
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Format follows tradition here. Antipasti, Primi, Secondi and dessert. I felt very at home and could have been in any similar restaurant in Italy, the authenticity is refreshing. The owner is also very (like very - I was DMd about its importance) keen to let people know this is not a restaurant, but an "<i>Osteria</i>". So what the hell is that?<br />
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There’s a pecking order with eateries in Italy (we Italians love rules, man. That Catholic guilt runs deep). Restaurants are at the top; formal, larger menus, professional service and linens. Trattorias are small, often family-run and offer simple, home cooked food. An osteria is even more casual than a trattoria, they used to be more of a wine bar with a dish or two, but have evolved to be more in line with trattorias. And there’s more; tavola calda, rosticceria, taverna…get it? Frankly, I don’t really think people here care about that at all. A restaurant is a restaurant is a restaurant to most people's eyes, but for the nerds out there, you're welcome. </div>
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You have the option of a la carte or the well priced sharing menu at £30.50 per person which I think reflected good value, even with its recent increase.<br />
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Antipasto lent on the gratuitous side as Italians like it. This part is a bit of a show off really, with the dishes arriving in stages. The cured meats were of great quality and surrounded with olives, cheeses, wonderful aged balsamic, cubes of home-made focaccia and fine little slices of tomato topped bruschetta. Then came buratta with pomegranate and beetroot, polpette (balls) of fennel sausage and aubergine in a fine deep-fried crumb with basil pesto and baked prawns with lemon and garlic. A feast to start a feast.<br />
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<i>Primi</i>, your pasta courses, come as a smaller portion as they should in this format. Tronchetti with a rich, deep ragu that had a hint of sweetness, maybe from a little nutmeg were delicious. The ravioli however were exceptional. Literally to-the-second perfection cooking on the pasta with an ideal thickness and texture. They were simply filled with vegetables and with a classic lemon, sage butter sauce. Had I a piece of bread I would have <i><a href="https://www.italymagazine.com/news/italian-ritual-fare-la-scarpetta">fa la scarpetta</a></i> without hesitation.<br />
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The mixed roast meats for the <i>secondo</i>, were very typical and nice touch that the meat was sourced from the mighty Westdene Butchers. Between us there was a lamb chop, piece of steak and fennel-rich, course Italian sausage. All just simply grilled. The fish option was a large single fish I didn't make out, filleted at the table and looked equally as good.<br />
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For the sides, fried potatoes over fries would have been preferable to me, but grilled aubergine slices with pomegranate (nodding to a Sicilian influence in the kitchen I feel) made an ideal and interesting side.</div>
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Food-wise it can't be faulted. I love that the OSTERIA hasn't caved in to adapting the food, you certainly, and thankfully, would never find a spaghetti bolognese on the menu and dishes have not been tarted up or tweaked in any way. No foams, smears, streaks or dots adorn the plates to confuse - just plain, old fashioned good cooking. </div>
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Service was well-paced but could sharpen up. It was a bit young, bit absent minded in places yet friendly. The owner was away when I visited, thankfully it seems, as some messages I received alluded to a gruff and unwelcoming vibe on occasion. I looked up Trip Advisor and there seems to be a theme about this, the management replies on there only strengthening the claim. However it seems children are very welcome here, my kids would adore the food and I'd bring them in for lunch without hesitation. Family dining options that don't limit you to the chains get a big tick from me. </div>
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Brighton is no longer a barren wasteland for Italian food. We were once left to fend for ourselves (well yourselves, I had my mamma's cooking) in the trenches of pizza pasta menus. Now there's a small celebration of good Italian food from some of our city's pizzarias, gelaterias, restaurants and of course, our only osteria.<br />
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<a href="https://francoshove.com/">Franco's Osteria</a></div>
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Hove BN3 2WE</div>
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Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-54456351393942498072019-09-11T17:59:00.002+01:002019-09-11T17:59:58.153+01:00REVIEW: Amarillo (pop up) by Ian Swainson, Lost In The Lanes, Brighton<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Opening a restaurant in Brighton isn't for the faint hearted and finding (and financing) permanent premises is a tough gig in these parts but not essential to making diners come to you. But the food industry can be resourceful little devils and many have started out by popping up restaurants in day-time eateries (I have high hopes for <a href="https://www.thegraphicfoodie.co.uk/2019/08/review-tlaloc-mexican-cuisine-brighton.html">Tlaloc after my recent visit</a> and remember the now two-site Cin Cin started out by selling antipasti out of a van).<br />
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They don't often all work though and sitting in a casual cafe in the evening can be a little awkward. Not here though as Lost in the Lanes is a cool little outfit; copper topped tables, bare plaster, naked Plumen bulbs all in a luxe, chic French farmhouse vibe. It almost lends itself to evenings more than day. And with With Ian Swainson's food on the tables, this certainly is a hot little ticket for date night. Swainson hails from The Pass (<a href="https://www.thegraphicfoodie.co.uk/2018/04/review-pass-south-lodge-county-house.html">I've never forgotten that dessert and left my visit</a> a fan of Ian's work) and led The Samling Hotel to a Michelin Star, so no surprise you'll find the refined touches and techniques of such a chef on the plates there.<br />
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However, Amarillo is intended to be far more stripped back and accessible to more; the menu is a sharing plate format, starting with pinchos and you'll find Spanish, Asian and even Italian influence throughout the dishes. <br />
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The Salmon pincho made for an incredibly strong start, the unctuous raw salmon belly with avocado was cut through with a hit of spice from sriracha. Toasts with serrano ham, topped with tomato, finely chopped egg white and a yolk emulsion, a refined version of a classic.<br />
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The menu is relatively short, two options each for fish, meat or vegetarian so allows you make a good dent across it, which I recommend you do. The bavette was knock-out in flavour, my favourite cut, with the deep, rich smoke of burnt onion sauce and balsamic. A simple side of tenderstem broccoli with the best béarnaise I've come across, the sweetness of the tarragon almost convincing me there was vanilla at play here too. <br />
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Of course if there's anything truffle on the menu it has to be mine; a perfectly made truffled scotch egg arancini perched on top of wild mushroom and a truffle cream sauce and the spinach, truffle and Parmesan salad engulfed the table with my favourite aroma. I'd have loved for the yolk of the arancini dish to have been more gratuitous and rich, and despite the smell, a harder hit of the truffle in that particular dish itself. That said, I would have happy eaten each dish again. <br />
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Both desserts are order worthy, the tiramisu particularly. Here deconstructed but so enjoyable with a light sponge, marscapone and a rich, salted chocolate mousse, the clever inclusion of an espresso granita just sexing up the whole damn thing. <br />
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If floral and delicate is more your dessert then the syrup-marinated peaches with lavender and Champagne is your ticket, with surprising little jellies and sticks of meringue to keep it fun.<br />
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Prices overall were, to me, incredibly reasonable for the quality of cooking at £50 or so for two excluding wine. Although we've generally seen the quality rise in our restaurants, prices have rocketed and a good meal is still not guaranteed. Last week a beyond mediocre meal would have left me £120 lighter. And I almost needed therapy after being served 7 anchovies from a tin with a drizzle of olive oil for £8 in a restaurant lately (it's going to take me years to get over that, YEARS). Anything goes here now the London money and the rising rates have blown our little seaside city into a new dimension, so when you see a chance for some great cooking at a reasonable price, snap it up. <br />
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Although Amarillo is box fresh, and in temporary environment, the intention for quality and detail has been strongly defined from the off, from the considered branding to the touches in the plating and settings, and of course the elegant food itself. <br />
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Amarillo is currently open Friday and Saturday evenings, with a view to extending to more evenings. <br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/amarillo_restaurant/">Amarillo</a></div>
c/o Lost In The Lanes<br />
10 Nile St, Brighton BN1 1HW<br />
amarillobrighton@gmail.com<br />
07307622076<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">I dined as a guest of Amarillo. Words and thoughts, as always, my own. </span></div>
Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-11037032694287673802019-08-08T18:31:00.000+01:002019-08-08T20:38:33.532+01:00REVIEW: Tlaloc Mexican Cuisine, Brighton <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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What’s in a name? For the absolute bejesus of me I couldn’t remember the name of this place that I’d fleeting seen on the feeds…finally some exciting, fresh and inspired Mexican food in Brighton…sign ME UP. Yeah, sure <a href="https://www.instagram.com/rosieposiebtn/">Rosie</a> (forever my dining partner of choice) I’ll book a table. Ok, so a pop up with no permanent address…Err…started with an "L" right? Lock, Lalock..no "T"...Tock, Twock, Taock...shout out to Instagram’s frankly useless search facility…rummaging in my followers list I finally found them - Tlaloc. </div>
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But this really is a name that serious diners in Brighton should know; as an aside, I could launch into a good 2000 words on the importance of business naming but I’ll save that little rant to launch my upcoming branding blog that this little adventure has inspired. Cock-headed I listened to the reasoning behind this from one of the founders after my meal…ready? Tlaloc is the God of rain. It rains a lot in England, hence the name. Thank goodness I had a good couple of margaritas in me to switch me into full off duty mode or we would have had a situation on our hands with the full force of my expressive Italian hand gestures thrown in for good measure. Make it easy for people to find your business, folks.</div>
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Tlaloc has been at its temporary, evening home in Oseta Cafe on North Road for 10 months which is far longer than I thought having only recently come across it. There seems to have been just a small murmur of interest behind it, which is building up and I’ve seen more of the people that influence me sharing it. </div>
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One of the highlight points seemed to be that they serve the best margarita in town and I can certainly vouch for that. The Hibiscus Margarita is an essential order; tart, zingy with a ferocious heat from the salt and chilli rim, softened with the sweetness from the fruitiness of the flower. But don’t stop there; there are plenty more to choose from on the menu and are perfect to knock back with the food. </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iaTjzrLbYF8/XUDJMcl-BII/AAAAAAAATfg/My9M6PFElh06ReYSlLKDO-dbq9fYtCsCwCLcBGAs/s1600/tlaloc_mexican_brighton_aguachile_taco_gf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iaTjzrLbYF8/XUDJMcl-BII/AAAAAAAATfg/My9M6PFElh06ReYSlLKDO-dbq9fYtCsCwCLcBGAs/s1600/tlaloc_mexican_brighton_aguachile_taco_gf.jpg" /></a>Oh and the <i>food</i>…there are three starters and I suggest you order them all. Sikil P’ak, a Mayan pumpkin seed dip makes for a great intro. Sweet, deep, smokey and ideal to get stuck in with the homemade tortillas. Aguachile of the day, Mexico’s answer to ceviche, was with prawns, perfectly prepared with delicate fine textures, heat, sweetness. The aerated citrus foam didn't bring much to the party and this isn’t a dish for everyone. Raw fish isn’t generally for me but Rosie, who eats it with the enthusiasm of a hungry seal, convinced me that if this <i>is</i> your thing, then you'll be wanting it sharpish. </div>
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You are invited to suck the heads of the prawns in the Camarones con alioli negro dish, and had they not been overcooked would have rewarded in a bit of tasty gruesome that gourmands relish. The saline squid ink alioli brought the drama, the ink adding richness to the dish.</div>
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Don’t skip the tacos that form a good chunk of the mains. Vegans are well catered for here and I was almost tempted away, but damn, the octopus taco. Visually beautiful, the tentacle wrapping round the taco like it was meant to be. “Al Pastor” should include pineapple which you wouldn’t notice but maybe it was there amongst the other, perfectly harmonious flavours. Wickedly hot, you will want to eat this. Just not in front of a first date. </div>
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On a par with this was the quesadilla de birria; super succulent, melting, pulled goat with just so much smoke and a deep, deep gravy. The fresh, zesty flavours that contrast this, the essence of which makes Mexican food so invigorating, were there in spades along with the delicious squish and crunch of it all. </div>
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Interestingly, you’ll find a slight refinement to the food which I imagine comes from the care and love of the people behind it. Luckily it is not distracting, other than the unnecessary foam that features here and there. This food really doesn't need these flourishes though, it can stand up without it. </div>
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As I said, the set up is currently untraditional in a cafe by day, the loos through the kitchen into what seems like a long forgotten set for Rising Damp (so terribly Brighton) with faded floral wallpaper and yellowed paintwork that hasn't seen a paintbrush since 1972. But this is, by far, the most noteworthy Mexican food I have eaten in Brighton. If ever a place deserved a permanent home in this city this is it. I hope they succeed, and will be a name, even as difficult to pronounce and remember as it is, that will be on everyone's lips.<br />
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Meal for two with service and four cocktails £70.<br />
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Tlaloc<br />
<a href="https://www.facebook.com/tlalocbrighton">Facebook page</a><br />
Currently at:<br />
Oseta Cafe<br />
34 North Road<br />
Brighton</div>
Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-25384168028393660132019-06-19T11:24:00.000+01:002019-06-19T11:24:05.148+01:00REVIEW: Easy Tiger, Brighton<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="text-align: center;">Easy Tiger is one of Brighton's latest successful pub kitchen pop ups, and we have quite a few to choose from to be honest. I don't think any Brightonian will put up with your average pub grub any more; we're spoilt rotten and the only way is up - eradicating every frozen chicken goujon in the city by 2025.</span><br />
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Still, I have to say it does take a bit to drag me from the dining comfort of restaurants, old woman I am. But headed up by chef Kanthi Kiran Thamma this is one to take particular note of. Kanthi, formerly of Curry Leaf Cafe, is quite possibly one of the most passionate chefs for all things Indian you'll ever meet. The man practically levitates when talking his craft, even orchestrating his own chef-led food tour, The Spice Circuit.<br />
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The Hampton has had a full makeover from the same team behind the successful The Pond. A superb selection of small brewery beers, cool interiors, great design (the murals by See Creatures are ridiculously brilliant) and really good food. <a href="https://www.thegraphicfoodie.co.uk/2018/01/review-baby-bao-at-pond-brighton.html">If you haven't had the bao buns at The Pond,</a> where the hell have you been? Their eye for creating modern pubs for the modern market and demands, whilst retaining an authenticity of what the pub stands for is unparallelled. </div>
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Easy Tiger food is inspired by street food and rustic dishes served in southern Indian Toddy Shops - bars selling fermented coconut palm sap and brutally hot food to encourage more drinking. But all we know is that spicy food and beer go hand in hand and the menu has been tailored for the pub environment very well. With no coconut palm sap on offer (actually I didn't check) a pint of local Burning Sky Arise did the trick nicely. <br />
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You could easily just upscale your pub snacks here with some marsala chips or Peanut Pakodi - fried peanuts in a spiced batter or there are some filled Ceylon parotta (an Indian style wrap) that would make an ideal lunch on the fly. <br />
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A toss up between the KFC (Keralan Fried Chicken) was the Tandoori Tangdi which didn't disappoint. Grilled pieces of tandoori spiced marinated chicken leg had a coating so crisp, that I'm surprised it wasn't fried. There was an optimum level of heat for the spice layers to come through which is the smart way to do spicy. This was excellent chicken to maybe rival Bincho Yakatori for the best in town.<br />
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Really enjoyable was the Gobi Manchurian, a dish of cauliflower pieces in a light batter, deep fried and slathered in a soy, ginger, garlic, and chilli sauce. If you thought cauliflower was boring, you haven't tried this.<br />
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Of the big dishes, a vegan Biriyani or Keralan vegetable stew are your bets, but for the meat eaters there's Jaffna Lamb Curry, inspired by Kanthi's trip to Sri Lanka. The Jaffna spice mix lends itself to rich, deep favours; coriander and cumin seeds form the base with sweet notes from cinnamon and cardamon, absolutely perfect with the slow-cooked lamb. You can order rice but this came with Malabar parathas, another Indian flat bread, pineapple chutney and a sour raita.<br />
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They don't over-look the details here. The pickles, chutneys and accompaniments really make the dishes, not least when ordering poppadoms - worth ordering for the mango and coriander and pea, mint and coconut chutneys alone. </div>
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The food was unquestionably good, my only negative was that foods were served on environmentally friendly plates and bowls made from some sort of plant or leaf. Pretty and far from the common paper plate, but they started to go soggy toward the end of the meal. Also, is there anything more environmentally friendly than washing up the damn plate? </div>
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Still, the menu offers so much more that I want to try and if you're bored of the traditional pub Sunday roast, then this is just the ticket.<br />
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<a href="https://www.easytigerbrighton.com/">Easy Tiger Brighton</a><br />
Easy Tiger at The Hampton</div>
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57 Upper North Street</div>
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Brighton BN1 3FH</div>
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</style>Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-68149346203692854042019-06-06T10:18:00.001+01:002019-06-06T10:18:23.532+01:00REVIEW: Purezza Pizzeria, Brighton<div>
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What’s good about pizza? Ooozing creamy buffalo mozzarella, affettati like salami, prosciutto and everyone’s favourite sausage du jour n’duja…but Purezza offer none of that, being a 100% plant-based pizzeria, the first in the UK none the less.<br />
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For all the many, many pizzas I’ve eaten in my time, the menu here is unlike any other pizzeria I’ve been to. They even make their own cheese alternatives, headlined by the all important mozzarella. Their version is made, somehow, with Italian brown rice. I tried to read up about it, something to do with rice sprouts to make rice milk..micronutrients..animoacids…blah, blah, blah. But does it taste good? It actually takes ok. I wouldn’t want to eat a block of it but melted on the pizza it was just fine and I bet most people wouldn’t even notice the difference.<br />
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The bases, it has to be said, are phenomenal. Although you can go for a Sussex-grown hemp flour base (could this <i>be</i> any more Brighton) or gluten free, I stayed safe with the traditional wholegrain sourdough. Beautifully crafted, super light, fluffy and pillowy, the base really was one of the best I’ve had. The cornicione was enormous but fully cooked and airy, you would easily eat the lot and not feel over-full.<br />
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Topping choices have been well considered, the Margherita and Marinara the only instantly recognisable ones amid some really interesting ideas. A good mix of both white and red sauce bases are on offer and only half have alternative meats on them although they can be added as an option.<br />
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The Green Supreme that I finally chose is just a reinvention of a classic friarielli (broccoli/spinach hybrid) and spicy sausage pizza I know and love. This being vegan the sausage was some sort of alternative meat and truthfully, I did miss the texture and taste of the real deal a little, but the combination with the mozzarella and bagfuls of spice from the chillis it was a great eat.<br />
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The slice from the other side of the table, a Season 4 Pizza 1 with mozzarella, artichokes, kalamata olives, beautiful trumpet wild mushrooms and a smoked beetroot carpaccio was also delicious. Sweet, piquant and well balanced and actually, a picturesque pizza if I ever saw one.<br />
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Not all the toppings work, on a separate visit I tried the Telling Porkies with marinated pulled BBQ pieces which I found dessert-like sweet, and truffle head I am, had great expectations of the Here Comes Truffle. This was fine, if slightly too earthy and muddy, and the generous wild mushrooms on top actually made it a tad sloppy.<br />
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For all the grown up Dominos weirdos out there that like dips for their crust, there are plenty to choose from including some interesting options like banana ketchup. This was so bizarre I had to try it, definitely a Marmite-love-or-hate thing, it wasn’t for me with the sweetness, but my dining pal happily polished off the lot.<br />
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Again sides are not something I order with pizza but looking round the restaurant I know I’m outnumbered on this too with diners supplementing their carbs with carbs (I always empathise with the chef in the film Big Night on this) with pots of mac’n’cheese, dough balls or getting their greens in with a salad or courgetti dish. </div>
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The wine list is ideal for pizza with a line up of the Italian classics but there are good fresh cold-pressed juices and soft drinks available. I also noticed diners knocking back cocktails with their pizza. Why the hell not, eh?<br />
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Desserts are a vegan and gluten-free choice dream, with Purezza’s take on tiramisu, Lemon cheesecake, gelato and even an Oreo pizza. The "tiramisu" was a slop of cashew cream and a single cheesecake style base that was lost on me - texturally and taste-wise. I am just not able to smash a dessert pizza after a pizza meal, so I found the oreo pizza stodgy and sickly - but give me a coffee and a slice of this mid-afternoon and I'm all in. However, the salted caramel brownie was rich and fudgy. A perfect semi-sweet note to end on.</div>
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Service was very good, fun and friendly. There naturally needs to be a bit more explaining with some of the foods served here and staff are well versed on the menu. You can’t book for two but I suggest putting your name down and heading over the road to La Mucca Nera gelateria for an aperitif.<br />
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The restaurant itself is now beautiful and on-brand. I remember when it opened with school-caff seating and scratchy plastic tables that didn’t get the ethos of the food across at all. Luckily that was skipped in favour of natural wood, warm lighting with a little industrial edge and the pizza oven in pride of place.<br />
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Worth noting is that kids eat free with each paying adult and I’ll definitely return with my pizza mad mini crew in tow.<br />
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I dined with my die-hard Vegan friend who raves about this restaurant and the fact that it is packed to the rafters on most days, lunch and dinner, is a clear sign they are doing it right. Whatever your diet, and this is a particularly good choice for those that are meat, dairy or gluten-free, there’s plenty to love about Purezza. </div>
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<a href="http://purezza.co.uk/">Purezza </a><br />
12 St James's Street</div>
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Brighton BN2 1RE </div>
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also at 43 Parkway</div>
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Camden Town</div>
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London NW1 7PN<br />
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</style>Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-16194612400393459412019-05-08T12:42:00.000+01:002019-05-08T12:42:21.296+01:00REVIEW: Lucky Khao, Brighton<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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Lucky Khao is the evening offering in the Instagram worthy Red Roaster cafe, having taken over from Pike and Pine. In place of edgy fine dining you'll now find more casual, vibrant Northern Thai Barbecue. Although, the concept does fit a little better with the eclectic location I expect it will still need to work hard to attract diners to that neck of the woods and appease the uncomfortable feeling of a day/night cafe/restaurant hybrid venue. The awkward, slightly wonky, bolted on neon signage to the front isn't the best first impression.</div>
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However, once inside, the beautifully designed menu (massive back pat for the person putting together the intricate dietary matrix on the back) makes for hard choosing to be honest; there sure is plenty to crave on it.<br />
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Mike's Party Wings certainly brought it. Sticky, sweet, messy and succulent chicken wings that you have no option to get down and dirty with. The caramelised fish sauce coating really is the one.<br />
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The Som Tam salad is big slap across the head of heat and flavour and comes with a necessary menu and verbal warning. This is a classic Thai green papaya salad, refreshing, pungent, crunchy, sour, a little sweet but brutally hot. Occasionally this dish can arrive limp and soggy but not here. I loved this and it's a must order.<br />
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Another good one were the mussels in a deep, fragrant, warming coconut broth. Lemongrass, citrus, fresh herbs, garlic and kaffir zing out of the broth and the mussels were plump and luscious.</div>
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It was a shame the crab salad had lots of irritating bits of shell in. You had to crunch your way through the whole thing so you missed the textural benefit of any sweet, soft pieces of crab meat. Overall this lacked the punch and depth of the other dishes however the egg on top was a nice touch with a perfect yolk and fine crisp casing.<br />
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Slap bang in the middle of the menu, highlighted in red and just shy of £10, was the Northern Thai BBQ Chicken, dressed up to feel like the headline act. Sad to say it failed to excite, not having that deep smoke or tenderness I expected. And unless I had been desensitised by this point, the spicy jaew sauce could have had more pout. </div>
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The Drunken Noodles sadly had to be returned, charred fresh fire noodles sound like the most exciting noodles on the planet but arrived woefully overcooked and claggy enough to sort out my dodgy garden walls with. Such a shame as the dish boasted the meatiest of prawns, chunks of shredded smoky pork and big, fat seared scallops. </div>
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Talking of drunk, there is a good list of sharing cocktails pitchers to wash down the spice with. Having had a big evening the night before, the Thai Bloody Mary made me feel right as rain again but I wasn't in the capacity to make a decent dent in the rest. I'll leave the Khao San Bowl, that's a whole bowl of Jagermeister, to the rest of you to dive into. </div>
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As you can see this is small plate sharing style - restaurant speak for "you're potentially going to rack up a massive bill". Diners are encouraged to select six dishes amongst two and although most of the menu is well priced, a few dishes are about £2-3 too keen in reality. £16 for three chops? I know goat is pricey but that's post Brexit level. However, they do offer a 33% discount on Friday and Saturday from 4pm - 7pm which makes for an exceptional deal.<br />
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The environment is as loud as the flavours here, if you want a quiet meal, this ain't it. Music is pumping to the point where even the waitress had to yell a bit, but it works with the youth vibe and the food. The neon signs, letterboard menus and head chef Luke Larsson's trademark green mohawk zipping across the open kitchen add the edge. And if you don't like racing spice or are due to be kissing someone new after, this isn't the restaurant for you either. But where we have more dining choice than ever in Brighton, I admire their effort to be putting out something different and there certainly is a place for it here.<br />
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Lucky Khao really does have the potential to be very good and the style of food on offer here is very appealing. The strong start shows the level of great cooking possible but such a shame the last few dishes let the meal down. Also, a few of the menu items are the wrong style to share, or awkward with the BBQ dishes, like the curries, so you probably need two visits to do it justice. Saying that, would I return for them? Probably.<br />
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<a href="https://luckykhao.com/">https://luckykhao.com</a><br />
Red Roaster<br />
St James’s Street<br />
Brighton</div>
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Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-73968830173720881732019-01-22T13:31:00.000+00:002019-01-22T13:31:47.244+00:00REVIEW: Gars, Brighton<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Respect to the restaurants that weather the decades, rent rises and diner demands and fashions. Gars is one of the few still going strong after such a long stretch, opening in '83. In fact, I remember one of my very first dates there (shout out to Jim) where faced with a bowl of exotic-for-me-at-the-time lychees, I downed the lot, stone and all, to avoid admitting I had no idea what they were - eyeballs? Shows how far I'm willing to go to impress I suppose. Lucky for me, the spiky skins had been removed. As I said, it was a LONG time ago.<br />
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Gars is has some Asian fusion influence to the menu and has more Anglo appeal than some of the other Chinese restaurants in town, so depending on how gung ho you are with a menu, may be more to your taste. I'd like to think we are more adventurous as diners but am sad to hear it when great dishes like the incredible <a href="http://www.thegraphicfoodie.co.uk/2019/01/review-pabellon-brighton.html">Iberia Pork Presa at Pabellón recently</a> was removed as diners couldn't get their head around pork being served pink. Me? I'm happy to throw a dart at one and if it lands on the duck tongue dish, bring it on. Most of the dishes here though you'll be familiar with; chicken satay, Wonton soup, sizzling meat dishes and fried shredded beef.<br />
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Prawn toast an inch thick was the best I've had. Soft, squidgy and crisp at the same time and their enthusiasm for BIG didn't wane throughout the starters; the fleshy, meaty garlic prawns struggled to fit on the plate and the pork ribs in a sticky Peking-style bbq sauce were Flintstone-esque. Best of this good bunch was a soft shell crab in a light batter and enough firery pepper to wake you up from a minor coma. In a good way.<br />
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A self imposed rule I have is to never to order the same dish when dining out but it's virtually impossible not to order the aromatic duck pancakes isn't it? Shredded tender meat, rendered of all that natural fat to make it juicy still, cucumbers, thinly sliced spring onion and paper thin pancakes. I loved them when I tried them as a kid and I love them just as much now. Hang on, let's go back to that paragraph about being adventurous shall we? <br />
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The table was then laden with Kung Pao prawns, sizzling steak in a black pepper sauce, Singapore noodles (actually a Cantonese creation) and egg fried rice to fill your boots with. A mix of heat, sweet, saucy, rich and spice that is heavenly to gorge yourself on.<br />
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Gars is a very modern Chinese in presentation, all bright, glossy finishes in black and red and I think there's a karaoke bar in the basement for when you've made a good dent in the sake.<br />
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The day time and dim sum menu is something also worth looking up; the stuffed crab claws, asparagus hot pot, pork dumpling soup, and the fashionable bao buns will certainly have me returning. If you want to try some of the more unusual or regional traditional dishes from this cuisine, with parts of animals that make most Western palates quiver, then there are places that cater for this in town. But if you have a craving for accessible Chinese food and need to scratch that itch, you can't go far wrong here. <br />
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<a href="http://www.gars.co.uk/">Gars</a><br />
19 Prince Albert Street<br />
Brighton<br />
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I dined as a guest of Gars. Words and thoughts, as always, my own. </div>
Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-7029032789651727632019-01-09T12:43:00.000+00:002019-09-12T12:25:20.013+01:00REVIEW: Pabellón, Brighton <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b>NOTE: Pabellón has now closed but their sister restaurant <a href="https://www.circo-brighton.co.uk/">https://www.circo-brighton.co.uk/</a> remains open. </b></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">Hero are the restaurants that thrive in difficult locations. And they do...look at Chilli Pickle from their original nook in the back and beyond of The Lanes, Coal Shed just off of Brighton's nightclub strip, the mighty Bincho Yakitori in the street that was notorious for mediocre grub. Even Pabellón's original restaurant, Senor Buddha (renamed Circo) in the arse end of London Road. But build it and they will come, forks in hand.</span><br />
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When Pabellón revealed their location, ok, in a prime spot near the Pavilion (see what they did there?), the location still jarred for me. A pass through, a nowhere...home of newsagents, banks and bus stops. Surely not a home to prop up the bar with a glass of fino? But hat off, the fit out is a beaut. Once inside this temple to Hague Blue you forget all about the outside world. And they've added to Brighton's growing portfolio of Instagram worthy loos, reclaiming the beautiful wood panelling from the previous owners.<br />
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This is Circo's sexier, glossier sister, retaining the modern Spanish tapas with an East Asian vibe that, somehow, they've made work so well.<br />
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And they’ve made it almost impossible to choose from the small plate menu, divided neatly into plant, fish and meat. The rain can howl outside all it likes with the holiday-vibe going on on the plates here; gambas a la plancha, sardinas al ajillo, patatas bravas, albondigas…Brexit? What Brexit? <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br />
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A must order is the Iberia Pork Presa, the pig version of Wagyu. Served pink (don’t freak) it’s evenly marbled so tender throughout with a rich, juicy flavour. All other pork is ruined now and this is sure to become the signature dish here.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br />
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The tender Pulpo Pabellón tentacle arrives dramatically curled around the plate. The char on this alone makes it another must order dish, the braised fennel working with the sweetness of the beast so well.<br />
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The volcanic chicken was a good dish to eat texturally; fire, crunch, sweetness and softness. Chicken isn't often the most inspiring meat to order but this had been given a worthy make over.<br />
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I fondly recall the spicy mojo potatoes from visits to the Canary Islands and have a lot of love for these little spuds. But these lacked the blood pressure bursting dried, salt crusted, wrinkly skins I remembered. Also, the mojo sauces could have also had more, er, mojo - with the heat being turned up a few dials.<br />
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The scallops with Iberico ham and an Asian wasabi pea puree is classic for the mash up style here that is so bizarre on paper but works so well on the plate. Heat, salt, sweetness...it was all there along with some scratchings made with the Iberico fat that were a clever textural detail.<br />
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The soy-blackened cod was another highlight. Sticky, sweet and unami rich with lightly pickled vegetables, seaweed and sesame seeds; just a lovely dish to eat.<br />
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The style of food here is a big hit with me, it's different, slightly quirky, sexy and intimate. It offers something unique to Brighton's food scene and the small team hit the mark on the service front too. <br />
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Drinks have also been well considered; you'll find a new love of a fino sherry and tonic, a brilliant list of Spanish gins and that's before you've hit the exclusively Spanish wine list.<br />
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I did return for the express menu for lunch a few weeks later which was also hugely enjoyable, but one little niggle, that I found with dinner too, was that potions were a little mean in places (scallops sliced in two, I'm looking at you), and this feels particularly unnecessary where cheaper ingredients are used like in croquettes. But I'd happily return for their unique flavours and also for brunch at the weekend - Morcilla De Burgos with the Catalan-style bubble and squeak? My future hangover is looking at you kid.<br />
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There's so much to love about Pabellón, it is certainly a great addition to Brighton dining; both as a daytime haven and date night gold.<br />
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<a href="https://www.pabellon-brighton.co.uk/">Pabellón</a><br />
13 Pavilion Buildings</div>
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I dined as a guest of Pabellón. Words and thoughts, as always, my own. </div>
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</style>Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-6739354616252673862018-12-04T17:07:00.001+00:002018-12-04T17:07:33.334+00:00LEARN: Bread Masterclass at Real Patisserie, Brighton<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Ah, beautiful, beautiful bread. Vilified in recent years by the trend dieter bores, the loaf is back on the table and so happy I am it is. From fine dining restaurants making the humble bread a star in its own right with glossy glazes and quirky ingredients, winged by some exotic butter or other to artisan bakeries popping up on every street, we are back to loving a slice of the good stuff.</div>
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Though Real Pâtisserie have been in Brighton for close to two decades now and their Chewy Brown loaf can be found tucked under my arm on a Saturday morning and also in many of the decent cafes on their breakfast and lunch menus.<br />
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On a Sunday morning though, when the bakery is closed, you can go one step further and learn how to make decent bread yourself. But good bread isn't easy and takes a bit of science, physical work, love and time to get right. <br />
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Here you'll learn about starters and yeast, flour qualities and the basic proportional ingredients of a loaf. But what is really key is the technique. You can also read every recipe out there but nothing compares to being shown first hand from the professionals the right temperature, touch and skill. Most doughs are really wet and tricky to work with, but with the right knack, transform into the sort of bread that will make you swear off the supermarket stuff for life. <br />
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I've been baking since 2011 where I went on a similar course and that really made a difference to my baking ability and I've used a sourdough starter since. The course, led by Wojciech, the Head Baker at Kemptown, was equally as good and one for you if you're serious about starting baking at home, or upping your skills and ditching the breadmaker. It was well paced, informative and very hands on, delivered in an enjoyable but professional way, and class sizes are kept small so is very attentive. Some of the forms were difficult (I'll never look at a baguette in the same way) but Wojciech ensured everyone was correctly following instruction and corrected each where needed.<br />
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We broke for lunch and were treated to a slice of the legendary RP quiches, salads and breads, and were offered hot chocolate fondants and coffee to power us through too.<br />
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Although Christmas and January looked all booked up, the course would make an awesome gift for someone (one of the students attending was celebrating their 40th) or a fun date activity (two couples and a mum and daughter team made up the rest of the group).<br />
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I will say this is reasonably demanding, and a long day on your feet (God bless the real bakers out there), but went by like a flash and at the end you'll be laden with a selection of beautiful loaves, crafted by your own hands. I was so happy with my rye and caraway and wheat sourdough loaves, focaccia and baguette. I'd like to say they fully stocked my freezer but everyone knows real bread is just too darn irresistible. </div>
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Courses run monthly on Sundays from their Kemp Town shop and cost £80 but will generally get quite booked up. Visit <a href="https://www.realpatisserie.co.uk/category/st-georges-rd-baking-classes/">www.realpatisserie.co.uk</a> for details and how to book.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">I attended as a guest of Real Pâtisserie but words and opinion, as always, my own. </span></div>
Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-53164624272550841992018-11-23T12:37:00.002+00:002018-11-23T13:50:36.322+00:00EATCATION: Rathfinny Tasting Room Restaurant and The Flint Barns, Alfriston<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The Rathfinny Wine Estate is the new kid on the block of the booming English sparking scene, having been planted up in 2010 and with the first bottles coming out just this year. The estate, 40 minutes or so from Brighton, in Alfriston, is pristine and picture postcard pretty, the synergy of the brand running throughout the estate beautifully.<br />
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And they should really rename their many sign posted “Passing Places” when driving through the estate to “stop the damn car and look at the view”. Less catchy, but from the highest point, right by the Estate Office is worth the visit alone; with a wide, breathtakingly beautiful vista of the fields down to Cuckmere Haven. On a blazing sunny Autumnal day, it was slight-tear-in-the-eye astonishing. <br />
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Anyway, pulling myself together and wiping away my pathetic, misty sentimentality (I’m getting worse), I carried on down to the estate's guest accommodation, The Flint Barns, and checked into my room in anticipation of dinner at the on-site Tasting Room Restaurant. Now, as we all know, a good meal needs good wine and we also know that large taxi fares and designated drivers are not so much fun. It would be a crying shame to dine here and not make a good dent in the wines, with a view of their growing patch from your table. So it makes absolute sense to make a weekend of it. <br />
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The Flint Barns have been sympathetically renovated with a mildly industrial edge, stylish but fitting with the original purpose of the building. My room, with large windows overlooking the vines would accommodate a couple and family; set up for multi use and even boasted two small but chic bathrooms. The room facilities are paired back (no TV or tea facilities) but downstairs there is a refractory style dining area for more casual breakfast, brunches and dinners (open to the public), paid bar and free hot drinks. You can relax in the lounge or in warmer weather soak up the rays in the stunning courtyard. The whole place has been crafted with the finest eye for detail. <br />
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I was expecting the restaurant to be closer to the accommodation, but no matter, they of course have a transport service to scoop you up and put you where you need to be. Bonus. <br />
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The Tasting Room Restaurant is again a tasteful space, in the summer dining outside on the terrace would be beautiful too. Often it's hard to imagine these places in use for lunch but I've already mentally booked in a visit in the spring to do just that.<br />
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Leading the kitchen, Head Chef Chris Bailey (who earned a Michelin Star whilst at The Black Rat in Winchester) weaves the seasons through his menus and makes best use of the local produce. This is like a lux agriturismo, and who wouldn't be inspired in this location, with choice picks from both land and sea.</div>
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Lunch is a very well priced £30 or £35 for two or three courses as well as a snacking menu to supplement a casual afternoon of drinking wine, which I’m totally on-board with. <br />
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Dinner however, is a choice of three set menus; Land, Sea or Garden. A few dishes span across the menus; the crab and shrimp tartlet, a rich aerated bisque fragranced with marigold and tiny cubes of fresh apple was perfect with a glass of the estate’s sparking. Of course, I made a beeline for the Blanc De Blancs, it’s my favourite. Although missing some of the dessert-like creaminess of some others I’ve tried it was delicate, elegant and a great introduction to the sparkling wines here. There is a Rosé too but you’ll have to wait a year for the Blanc De Noirs. Given a few more years under their belt, I think we'll be seeing a number of awards nailed into the freshly plastered walls.<br />
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A perfect little baked pumpkin arrived next filled with an earthy and rich chestnut, sage and ricotta risotto and dusted generously with fresh truffle. It doesn’t get more seasonal than this and so unusual to see a decent, and welcome, portion of food on a plate in this sort of dining format.<br />
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A harmonious and texturally clever dish of tartare of sea trout followed, dusted with a punchy horseradish snow and a shiso tea poured over at the table. I'd moved onto a glass of the estate's other brand Cradle Valley, an equal blend of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, high in citrus and floral, and ideal with the dish.<br />
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Suffering slight envy at the classic venison saddle of my dining companion initially, dish of the night for me was my wild bass with salsify and fennel and slightly bonkers salty fingers; samphire's pumped up big brother. The anise and artichoke flavours work so well with white fish and proves simplicity always wins on a plate.<br />
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Pre-dessert arrived as a cheesecake lollipop with dehydrated black fig, before the 65% dark chocolate delice with salted caramel, a spiced plum, and almond ice-cream, which was ideal to enjoy with a golden, honeyed dessert wine from the Denbies estate.<br />
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The food I have to say was knock out. Elegant, creative, yet the ingredients were still very much hero, pitched perfectly for the setting and style of the restaurant and location. And yes, grapes featured, of course as a nod to the estate, in jellied petit fours and as wingmen on dishes like the butter-soft roasted quail. They navigated the dietary requirements of my friend perfectly as well, so don't be afraid, with prior notice, to experience places like this.<br />
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Service was well-paced and friendly, and although the food was introduced well, I feel they could have done a much better job in introducing and matching the wines or even highlighting the Seven Sisters gin and vermouth brand, also produced by the estate, perhaps for a welcome drink or cocktail.<br />
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Waking up the next morning, you can scuttle down to breakfast where the tables have been reserved in your names on little branded tickets (nice touch). After some spiced plums and greek yoghurt, a brilliant quality full English was just the ticket to fuel a brisk walk around the estate. I loved that comms had also been passed on here and a gluten and dairy free tailored breakfast was also waiting for my friend without any request.<br />
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My stay at The Flint Barns made me really keen to return for brunch or lunch on a Sunday, where you can book a table without the need to stay. Obviously it's a far more casual affair than the Tasting Room Restaurant, but judging by the enormous joints of meat the chef was hauling and the incredible smells coming from the open kitchen already, made me think it would be a good shout. <br />
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This is a very well set up estate for visitors with tasting rooms, two different dining experiences, vineyard tours, a shop and a beautiful trail around the estate, so even if you are not staying or eating (which I recommend you do), it's well worth the visit. It may only be a short hop from Brighton, but I returned well fed, well watered, well walked and pampered. Ideal.<br />
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<a href="http://rathfinnyestate.com/">Rathfinny Wine Estate</a><br />
Alfriston<br />
East Sussex<br />
BN26 5TU</div>
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I dined and stayed as a guest of Rathfinny. Words and opinion, as always, my own.</div>
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</style>Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-8819141050173648972018-11-21T15:35:00.000+00:002018-11-21T15:40:24.937+00:00REVIEW: The Set Restaurant, Brighton<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Set in their ways these guys are are not. I don’t think any other local restaurant has been so fearless in both risk taking and adapting to the ebb and flow of dining demands. Chef and Owner Dan Kenny seemingly keeps his eye close to operations to see how things evolve, and he takes criticism like a champ and acts upon it. The Set, a stone's throw from the beach in Regency Square, hasn’t been smooth sailing, its quirky location took some getting used to and then the various reshuffles of dining formats, ownership, and restaurant layouts will have left a trail of confusion an extent. Now discarding their set menus, they are relaunching with an á la carte (are we all thinking it’s time to admit the “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” approach to restaurant dining - let diners choose what they want on the menu…wild).<br />
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One fundamental thing I have found throughout their 4 years though, is that I’ve generally only heard positive feedback of the food and thankfully, the quirks and flair that have set their style are still evident on the new menu, where you'll find a love of Asian ingredients and nods to fast and street food rubbing shoulders with some of our best local produce.<br />
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To simplify matters further, the new menu is available from lunch through to dinner, and now you can dine here for roughly £30 for three courses. Although I'm partial to the creativity and theatre of a set or tasting menu, it can prove prohibitive to many, in terms of costs and tastes, so that it can turn out to be a restaurant’s downfall. And the tide in general seems to be turning on the trend too. The Set was certainly in the “special dining” bracket, solved in part by various more casual dining options in the front bar area, but I think it’s best to be brave, be bold, be on brand with one vision, and this menu now adapts for both blow out anniversary dinners and mid-week mate catch ups.<br />
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Choosing more vegetarian options these days, as well...chefs are doing more interesting things with them, the parsnips with burnt apple was a strong start; earthy, sweet, caramelly and perfect with the vadouvan spiced roasted chickpeas. Rosehip spheres glossed up the dish to something special.<br />
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A popular choice seemed to be the crab bao, brown crab bun, XO mayo, radish slaw. Such a crowd pleaser this; on-trend, squidgy, soft, crunchy and something to get stuck into with a classic The Set treatment to it.<br />
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Sitting at the pass I managed to grab one of the main courses, lamb from the mighty Saddlescombe Farm three ways and beautifully done it was; the best a rich ragu done like mamma likes with the holy trinity soffrito. This is a classic dish but slightly twisty and deliriously delicious. The bacon potato gratin, pass me a fork, I could have eaten a whole tray of.<br />
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But alongside the mains, there are some sharing options too. A pheasant crown, or BBQ hispi cabbage, but I opted for the whole salt baked bream. Simple, but sexed up with the details such as the seaweed in the kale, toasted hazelnuts in the ratte potatoes and a punchy BBQ lemon marmalade that someone needs to put in a call to Dragon's Den about for the marketing of. Add in the aerated Béarnaise Sauce, I defy anyone not to be happy with this dish.<br />
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The posh ode to the Maccy D apple pie may have been flying out of the kitchen and seems set to be a bit of a future signature dish, but to finish, my curiosity for the miso tiramisu got the better of me. As a typical Italian purist, I despise classic Italian dishes messed around with, but eyebrow cocked, I hold my hands up that this dessert was surprisingly good; caramel, coffee with a definite saline hit of miso to intensify the flavours throughout. Not technically a tiramisu as we know it, but a smart, sophisticated and revved up homage to the original.<br />
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As well as the á la carte, they will be introducing The Set’s Chefs’ Table, available to just two couples per evening at the pass. I think this is the only Chefs’ table experience in Brighton where the chefs will craft a bespoke multi-course menu and wine flight, designed to cater for each customer’s specific personal preferences and dietary requirements.<br />
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This is a great spot for dinner (pre and/or post drinks in the adjoining The Fix bar, of course) and the nature of the starters and snacks make it a great small plate destination for lunch. Oddly, by simplifying things, they've made themselves more versatile and this time I think they've cracked it.<br />
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<a href="http://www.thesetrestaurant.com/">The Set</a><br />
33 Regency Square<br />
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Brighton BN1 2GG<br />
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I dined as a guest of The Set. Words and opinion, as always, my own.<br />
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Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-85144087678645474182018-10-23T12:16:00.000+01:002018-10-23T12:16:22.667+01:00LEARN: The Community Kitchen, Brighton<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Food is great. That we know. <br />
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But (and here’s where I get all Jamie Oliver 2005 so frigging brace yourselves) food that shared in a place that gives much needed skills to really improve lives is where the magic happens. I’ve been watching the Community Kitchen, a social enterprise model, morph into a space that has so much potential for good, where people can “experience the benefits of cooking and eating together, regardless of finance, confidence or ability.” In the daytime they run community cookery programmes for people with mental health issues, dementia, learning disabilities and anyone that can benefit from cooking, learning life skills for well-being and sharing food together. <br />
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Behind this is <a href="http://bhfood.org.uk/">Brighton and Hove Food Partnership</a> a non-profit organisation that have worked on community food projects in the area for over a decade from community gardens, food wastage campaigns and neighbourhood meal sharing clubs. <br />
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It’s also a beautiful space available for hire and they also run cookery courses and classes, the profit from which goes straight back into the work the partnership do with masterclasses from the city’s best chefs, on-trend skills such as fermented foods and make your own charcuterie, seasonal workshops and well-being focused classes. <br />
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My cooking weak spot is baking though so a cake decorating masterclass with Kane McDowell<span style="background-color: white; color: #545454; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> </span>from one of my favourite local Bakeries, Sugardough, was the one for me. <br />
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We were led through how to make a Genoise sponge and strawberry syrup, before being shown how to create a perfect semi naked cake (where the cake peaks out from the frosting). And never will I cut a tiered cake unevenly again which was worth turning up for alone. <br />
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Then the fun bit with pretty piped Italian meringue frosting and tricky chocolate writing (no evidence I’d studied typography and been a graphic designer for over 15 years AT ALL). <br />
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Dodgy type aside, I was very pleased with the cake, the kids thought I was pretty heroic when I brought it home for demolishing. It definitely has given me some confidence and skills to push decorating a bit further. Aside from learning, it was a really fun way to spend an evening and really relaxing too. <br />
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The Community Kitchen is a brilliant place for so many people in Brighton. I liked how they started the event by sitting everyone around the huge communal table for some lovely breads, dips and nibbles to break the ice and get the evening started. There were so many different people there, couples, singles, friends and a mum and her Bake-Off obsessed young son (who was having the time of his life!). <br />
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Visit <a href="https://bhfood.org.uk/events/">events</a> for upcoming events and to find out more about The Community Kitchen see <a href="https://bhfood.org.uk/cookery-school/">bhfood.org.uk</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W_8F-zL17TY/W85m9p2IcKI/AAAAAAAAPaU/DSfCh492HMQrZfZ0H_zN0fA0YLgCDHYFACLcBGAs/s1600/sussex_community_kitchen_bag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W_8F-zL17TY/W85m9p2IcKI/AAAAAAAAPaU/DSfCh492HMQrZfZ0H_zN0fA0YLgCDHYFACLcBGAs/s1600/sussex_community_kitchen_bag.jpg" /></a><br />
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<b>Community Kitchen</b>113 Queen’s Road<br />
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Brighton BN1 3XG<br />
<a href="http://bhfood.org.uk/category/community-kitchen/cookery-school/">bhfood.org.uk</a></div>
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I attended as a guest of The Food Partnership.</div>
Graphic Foodiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06996991111308891331noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1089319888301881958.post-6965257076908681432018-09-05T23:53:00.001+01:002018-09-06T00:06:55.123+01:00REVIEW: La Belle Assiette, private chef service<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="text-align: center;">I'm no stranger to the dinner party (still sounds so very 1970s doesn't it?). As soon as I bought my first tiny shoebox flat in Brighton, the kitchen, with about 2 inches of work surface, was thrown open to guests. Heavily laden with ingredients, I'd come home from work on Fridays and start preparing that whole evening and following day. Friends would be shoe horned in, Lord knows how, and cheek to jowl I'd feed them up, course after course after course. I think a few of these spanned until the morning hours where we'd start breakfast service, before I collapsed in a heap. Chefs, I salute you. </span><br />
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So yeah, I blooming love a dinner party. Then life happens and the luxury of 48 hours food prep is frankly laughable, but my table is still host to friends and family; the love for convivial suppers still running deep, with me generally sweating it out in the kitchen.<br />
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La Belle Assiette contacted me to see if I'd try a private chef service with restaurant quality food. I love to cook so it's something I'd never thought of, but the lure of not doing any shopping, prep, graft, or cleaning up was an incredible pull. Imagine, I could just swan in like Margo Leadbetter with just table decorations and guest invitations to busy myself with.<br />
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The whole experience was great fun; choosing a chef online, reading through sample menus and seeing a professional at work in your own kitchen. I selected Marianne Hospel, based on her off-beat menus. I didn't want anything typically Mediterranean or British so was tempted by her eclectic menus. </div>
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Toying between her Dutch heritage menus and something Moroccan, a chat over the phone helped me choose the menu for six of us, with Marianne full of ideas, particularly in crafting the menu for my one vegan guest as not to make them feel left out or the rest of us compensating for anything. I liked how involved I felt in creating the menu too. Clearly a very experienced chef, she also asked some practical questions and came armed with equipment for any eventuality.<br />
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We went for her "Rock The Kasbah" menu, fitting for the hot evening, colourful enough for impress the girls, and reminded me of holidays in Marrakesh. </div>
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After an additional amuse with homemade spiced flatbread, we started with a bejewel salad of sumac roast squash, mung beans and pomegranate; the feta crumb being replaced with a vegan alternative for a seamless swap. <br />
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A 36hr Moroccan spiced slow-roasted Lamb followed, blush pink and succulent. The vegan dish was a vegetable and almond pastilla (far nicer than the boney pigeon one I did have in Morocco, dusted with a tooth-tweaking amount of icing sugar, as is tradition). We all had the accompanying herbed Israeli cous cous, chickpea salad with harissa, olives and the most incredible homemade preserved lemons. I adored all the levels of flavour here, which momentarily broke the incessant chatter of the table. </div>
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Star of the show, and I rarely say this, was dessert. A pistachio and rosewater vegan baked cheesecake with fresh figs. Utterly sublime and such a good vegan dessert that everyone was calling to the chef for the recipe.<br />
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I thought it would be strange and imposing having a chef in my home serving my guests but my need to jump in my own kitchen faded as soon as I'd popped the cork of the aperitivo to be honest. Marianne, was particularly lovely, intervened only when necessary and introduced the courses beautifully. It really did feel like a treat, even sat in my own home and my guests seemed to have had a great time too. It really was a fun experience and such a luxury not being lumbered with the washing up either. Marianne brought all the plates and cooking equipment with her (or used and washed some of mine).</div>
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It actually freaked me out a little bit coming downstairs the day after and everything being in its place. Normally, it's utter carnage in the kitchen the morning after!<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">The meal was delicious, beautifully presented, different and wowed my guests who had never experienced something like this in a home environment. </span></div>
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Also, one of my friends did make a really good point in that at £39 per head, this was actually something we could occasionally club together for instead of going out as we do. It's more relaxed, no-one is making you feel your time is up, you can discard heels and belts with gay abandon, and to be honest - £39 doesn't get you that far these days in terms of food and drink. It's also a smart idea for parents, those who can't get out so easily, or live in the absolute sticks. </div>
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We had a lovely evening and were still at the table, bleary eyed well past carriage o'clock. I'm sold.</div>
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La Belle Assiette offer various chef packages from £39 up to Michelin Star grade experiences. Visit <a href="http://labelleassiette.co.uk/">labelleassiette.co.uk</a> for more details.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">I received this service without charge in exchange for an honest review. </span></div>
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