13 October 2009

RECIPE: Italian breaded chicken and the origins of "the parmo"



I really couldn't believe my eyes when I read about the "parmo", a Teeside post-booze takeaway delicacy of fried breaded chicken, topped with bechamel sauce and covered in melted cheese. The name Parmo derives from Pollo alla Parmigiana, but I guess it is easier to call for a parmo after a skinful.

Parmigiano means "from Parma", a northern Italian town in the food mamma-ship region that is Emilia Romagna. So no, it is not meant to contain Parmesan cheese.

Thinly cut, breaded and fried veal, pork or chicken is a very common dish in Italy but I have never eaten or seen it topped with anything, least of all bechamel sauce! As Italian food varies between regions, I thought I just may not have come across it before. Typically you tend to only eat the cuisine from your region and because every Italian thinks (and argues!) that their own is best, whole areas of Italian cuisine can be easily missed.

After a bit of research I couldn't find the origins of the authentic Italian "parmo". The closest I got was a popular tomato sauce and mozzarella topped breaded chicken dish called Chicken Parmigiana that has evolved outside of Italy. It seems to be most popular in America and Australia, two countries that have huge settlements of Italian immigrants. Still scratching my head about the Teeside parmo love though!


Image via Wikipedia by Karl Bomersbach

As loved as it is, I'm not convinced on this dish but what the hell do I know, because Asda is apparently selling 6,000 chicken parmos a week in their store in Teeside, the shop's fastest selling item. Due to their growing success Asda are thinking of rolling out the line nationally.

Until that time, here is my recipe for breaded chicken, of course veal and pork can be used as well. I don't know why but cooking this method produces the most moorish, succulent meat. Perfect on its own with just some slices of lemon, sauteed potaoes and a salad. But if you wish to top this recipe with bechamel or tomato sauce, pepperoni, garlic butter, cheddar cheese, pineapple or whatever, then knock yourselves out.

The breadcrumbs I use are packeted Italian breadcrumbs that give a much better result than homemade.



I bring back suitcase loads of these (god help me if customs stop me) but you must be able to get them in good Italian delis or online. For example, the Mulino Bianco range is good and available here. Homemade breadcrumbs can be used but just make sure they are very dry and extremely fine.

Method
Take either a chicken breast or veal or pork escalope and using a meat mallet, bash it until very, very thin. The thinner, the better but you still need to pick the piece up without it breaking! Beat an egg in a bowl and season. On a large flat plate spread out your breadcrumbs. Coat the meat in the egg mixture then dip into the breadcrumbs, pressing down firmly.

In a large frying pan, pour in enough olive oil to cover the base of pan and heat. Fry the bread crumbed meat, tuning once, until golden.

Pop onto the plate with the kitchen roll and place in an oven on a low temperature to keep warm if you are doing a big batch.

8 comments:

  1. My brother makes a dish, think he calls it Veal Cordon Bleu (with a touch of irony... I hope). More or less the same technique except that you sandwhich gruyere cheese between two beaten out pieces of veal, then breadcrunb and fry. It looks and sounds very old fashioned... but it tastes so good.

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  2. Its all about the Parmo it seems Fran.
    I can tell you've been rocked to your very core by that article.
    But, much kudos to you for trying to fight the good fight and presenting your own, more traditional version 'Parmos - Grandfather' as it were.

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  3. Hi Wine Splodge.. hmm that sounds rather nice!

    Dan. From total ignorance on the parmo, it now surrounds me. Last night I watched a programme and what was featured - the parmo. A sick part of me actually wants to try it. Anyway this I do love breaded chicken this way - maybe with some "peasant greens" on the side too.

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  4. I had this very dish Tuesday night in London! Just before going to the theatre. Very old fashioned family run restaurant. It was lovely.

    Yours looks so delicious, what's that with it Fran?

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  5. Hi Jan, I used to have this in The New Picadilly in London, a 50s Italian cafe with original interior and all. Theirs was not great but the ambiance was amazing. Unfortunately closed down forever. http://thegraphicfoodie.blogspot.com/2009/02/new-piccadilly-cafe-gone-but-not.html

    The potatoes are just sauteed with herbs and lots of olive oil and the veg is some poshed up Italian peasant greens. Same as the normal recipe I've posted about with cabbage but with a few bits of crunchy pancetta thrown in for good measure.

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  6. That is the first time I hear about that dish and it sounds delicious. Actually, I always have heard problems resisting italian food :).

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  7. As you said, this is huge in Australia. Called a "Parmi" or a chicken schnitzle it is sometimes topped with a meat ragu and then cheese (which is normally a cheddar/mozzarella mix). Every pub has a chicken or "veal" (and i use the term loosely) parmi on the menu. And right now...I have a craving for one. might pop down the corner for lunch.

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  8. Ha ha ha, your dish sounds lovely but I cannot stop laughing about that Teeside parmo! Now that really is a guilty pleasure. If indeed it is a pleasure!

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