Also, having eaten a lot of fish and veg this week, I was in a dire need of a meat fix. For the life of me I could not think of any good places for steak and didn't want anything too formal, so we stumbled past the bustling El Mexicano in New Road and it seemed a good idea. Last time I went here was a good few years ago and I remembered the food was quite good. Spicy steak sizzling on a skillet? Oh yes, count me in.
Mr Graphic Foodie being a nacho obsessed simpleton always has to have them as a starter. They arrived with a sprinkling of cheese and some insipid salsa that tasted like it was from a jar. You had to order the guacamole and sour cream separately apparently which is like serving spaghetti and charging extra for the sauce. In any case they were cinema nacho standard at best.
I went for the sopes as I saw a picture of some in the week and they looked generous, rich and delicious. What arrived was two little pathetic tasteless corn discs topped with some half arsed salad and chorizo cubes. And what the fajita is that cucumber, tomato and unidentifed cream blob doing there? What is is doing? If I were in power, the first law I would put into practice is forbidding pointless garnishing.
I was almost dreading the main meals coming by now. I ordered the Gorditas de Res, shredded beef brisket parcels covered in a thin batter, served in a spicy tomato sauce with rice, refried beans and another freaking 80s salad garnish with thick vinegarette. Mr GF ordered the beef enchipotlada which was drowned in the same tomato sauce. Both were perfectly palletable and the brisket was very tender. My dish had a good level of heat but there was no real taste spark and the watery separation of the tomato sauce suggested a reheat. Two mouthfuls in and I was bored.
Looking at both our dishes and at the other tables, what was becoming apparent was that this is the sort of Mexican restaurant where there are a core set of sauces and ingredients that are just presented differently or the tortillas folded another way to form all of the items on the menu. You know the type. The same tomato sauces, the same beige refried beans and salad garnish on everything. I don't think any of the dishes have been individually considered. They must just make vats of these basics and reheat them to serve. Lazy little wotsits.
I always paruse the desert menu before ordering mains and really had my eye on the chick pea cake with orange but didn't want to take the risk of it turning up with that tomato sauce or that salad garnish. This restaurant makes it's money in it's prime location in the theatre district and the passing trade. The rough and ready atmosphere is fantastic if you want something informal and cosy and I must say the staff were great but they really need to pull their socks up on the food which is not terrible, but overpriced for the mediocre dishes they offer. Had it been cheaper and had pictures on the menu then fine, because you would have know it was that sort of place.
On review sites elsewhere there seems to be a love it or hate it mentality and a few do rate this restaurant quite highly. But would I personally recommend El Mexicano or go back here? 'El no.
El Mexicano
7 New Road, Brighton, BN1 1UF
Really good post.
ReplyDeleteThese sort of restaurants make me livid. They are incredibly lazy and rely on numpties who are not that bothered about quality food. Why and how do they survive?
...and mugs like me who are being indecisive about where to eat! Always. Have. A. Plan.
ReplyDeleteI and many friends & colleagues have visited EL Mexicano numerous times over the years after reading a great article about it in the Independent on Sunday. The restaurant has been consistently good and got better and better introducing Spanish food too over the years.
ReplyDeleteSo am I a Numpty ? Do numpties not have a view or opinion on food? are we a different species to foodies? Or are our opinions frequenting establishment not valid? This place serves good honest food and hasn’t given in to the calling and beckoning of the Tex Mex brigade, which has single handedly all but ruined our concept of Mexican cusine.. Having lived in Mexico and California for many years I believe I have developed a good palate for this fare. Having seen ‘foodie’ type restaurants come and go over the years this one has stood the test of time. It has a good balance Other wise why would it still be there?
If restaurants as businesses set there agenda to satisfy only ‘foodies’ and mimick celebrity chef business models, who could afford to go to their establishments? and why would you? Surly local good independeant businesses should be supported?
Signed
A numpty
Dear A Numpty,
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for your comment. I wholeheartedly agree that there is a huge place in our town for good honest food. If you read my blog you'll know that I couldn't give two hoots for samphire foams or cubes of salmon cooked in liquid nitrogen served with a crystalled mountain snail (that's what you were getting at, no?).
I don't think that everyone who considers themselves "foodies" are some elitist group of tossers either, some of us just take great pleasure in eating delicious food. If you are happy with El Mexicano then super! If we all had the same tastes then life would be boring. If you enjoy it - eat it! If you want to give your opinion then there are lots of local review sites that you can upload your thoughts to. Not just for us "foodies".
I'm not quite sure why a Mexican restaurant would introduce a Spanish tapas menu if the Mexican food is exceptional but hey, some people like to mix it up a bit rather than keep true to their cuisine culture. I wasn't very impressed with it on my last visit (or the 2 other visits I'd made before this review) but if you love this restaurant then support it, I personally could think of tens of other affordable, local, independent restaurants I'd rather eat at in Brighton.
As for special occasion fine dining, Brighton has a core group which HAVE stood the test of time due to their attention to detail, quality and strive for perfection. They too have a place in our city.
So, something for everyone. Hurrah!