18 April 2009

Crispy chicken with pancetta and butter beans and the death of the cookbook



Have I ever mentioned how much I love the BBC Good Food website? Brilliantly photographed food and the recipes just work. Seriously, some recipes aren't even tested in some publications. The usability of the site has been thought about and although I don't use it, it has a binder feature that remembers all your saved recipes. Brilliant for inspiration.

I made this chicken with pancetta and butter beans from it for a family dinner and it went down a storm. It's a kind of take on a chicken cacciatore but a bit snazzier and I particularly love it as butter beans are my new thing. The pancetta really gave the sauce a good smoky flavour and rosemary, tomatoes and chicken go together like a er, horse and carriage.

My obsession with the BBC GF site got me thinking. The internet has had me cracking my cookbooks open less often than I used to and there is an ongoing question as to whether the internet has killed them. True, with all the great food blogs out there and instant searchability on offer it is easy to forget about the old faithfuls on the shelf.

I love the quick identification for a strange ingredient you have come across or an instant solution to a lumpy sauce crisis you are in. But you will have a hard job getting me to part with my books because they are more than a just a bound collection of recipes. Good cookbooks have a sense of story running through them and a narrative to bind the recipes. They can be so beautifully designed and photographed that they are tactile pieces of art - look at Heston Blumenthal's latest effort designed by Purpose. Stunning.

I particularly like the fact you can annotate and personalise your books. My mother's dog-eared, dust jacketless and yellowing copy of her Mrs Beeton Book of Household Management, is full of scribbles and has about twenty casual and hilariously all-Italian (as it's a traditional English cuisine book) recipes handwritten by her on the inside covers. Amongst them a recipe for a much-loved cagionetti recipe from my aunt, another for pickling peppers which reminds me of the pungent, nose singeing vinegar smell in the house when she made them and my dad whingeing about it. Priceless history. You are not going to pass on your saved bookmarks and links are you?

Cooks and chefs tend to be incredibly passionate people and I like the lively conversational aspect that the books give. Yes, I know blogs are pure conversation and personality but I see them as a quick catch up in the street, a fleeting hello and lovely to see you where as the books offer a nice long sit down and chat. Both are great and have their place and in fact, some of the more established food bloggers have gone on to publish their own books.

There is no going back for me now, the internet is an essential part of my kitchen as the pots and pans but my books are also here to stay in all their ingredient splattered glory. For one you can't cover you laptop in flour and egg and get away with it like a book, can you?

What do you think?

5 comments:

  1. I completely agree with you.

    While I love foodie websites (and BBC Good Food is definitely a favourite, along with Gourmet Traveller), you'd have to pry my cookbooks from my dead cold hands.

    I too love the personalisation of real live books - splotches of sauce and oil or smears of chocolate on my favourite pages, handwritten notes and pages dusty with flour and cocoa.

    I love the food porn photos too - although oddly my few favourite cookbooks have no recipe photos at all.
    (Stephanie Alexander's Cook's Companion and David Thompson's Thai).

    I've even been known to read cookbooks in bed or on holiday in far flung places. A good cookbook is a wonderful fairy tale that transports you through a cacophany of smells and textures and flavours.

    Nice work on the crispy chicken by the way and thanks for a thought provoking post.

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  2. The Internet has it's place, and I find myself Googling for ideas, methods, etc, but I'd never (never!) be without my cookbooks.

    In ultra-geek fashion, I catalogued all of my books on Library Thing (www.librarything.com - go check it out - it's a book geek revelation), and realised that over 10% of my books are cooking or food related.

    I studied English Lit at university and I consequently have a lot of books. Really, a lot. So 10% of a lot is a lot of cookbooks, some of which are utter classics (Larousse, Elizabeth David), some of which are inspirational (Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall's superb books), some of which just work (anything written by the God-like hand of Nigel Slater), somee of which are prescriptive and matronly (step forward, Delia) and some of which are just...rubbish (I'm too much of a gentleman to name names...)

    My cookbooks are staying, fat stains, battered corners, notes, corrections and all. End of discussion.

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  3. I agree that the internet is a constant source of inspiration, but - I cook from recipe books much more often than from recipes I find on the internet....I love cookbooks - I've got loads - and have an Amazon wishlist stuffed full of loads more (for when I'm feeling flush or if some kind person wants inspiration for a prezzie).

    Strangely enough, I do most of my cookbook reading in the bath.

    Also - I've noticed old favourite cookbooks need re-reading every now and again - it's strange how sometimes you 'miss a recipe' or scan it but dont really take it in....but then later, as you've become more experienced or familiar with the ingredients, you might re-read the recipe and suddenly it 'clicks'

    BTW - that Chicken and Butterbean dish looks really good.

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  4. Loving that the cookbooks are still an important part of your kitchens. That makes me smile.

    Dan - As for reading cookbooks in the bath, that's a new one on me! That made me laugh.

    My Amazon wish list is gigantic too but I think my next purchase when I have some "dough" will be the Bread Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum. So many people have recommended it.

    Rich - I love Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall's books - what a hero! Not read any Nigel Slater's though. Supposed to be very inspirational.

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  5. Nigel Slaters books are fantastic. I have two - Appetite and Real Food - he has a way of talking about Food that is the literary equivalent of the Gastro Porn M+S ads. You read his recipe books and end up drooling. The guys a genius....In actual fact, I'm cooking one of his recipes tonight - Thai Green Curry - his recipe is the best I've come across, made it countless times.

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What do you think? (Not you anonymous, you're MEAN.)