23 May 2013

Street Diner, Brighton


I finally managed to pop down to the new weekly street food market in Brighton last week, Street Diner. I tell you what, it's a joy to see a green area formerly frequented by the own-brand cider brigade positively transformed into a serious foodie destination. Everyone from suits to hipsters piled onto the grass noshing on fantastic pork belly steamed buns from Yum Yum Ninja, Troll's Pantry burgers, Bratwurst from Campervanatics, Paella from Crocus and gravity defying cakes from Honeycomb Cakes. The huge stir fries and crepe stand also looked pretty good too. 






There were actually less stalls than normal on this day. The mind boggles because I'd probably still be there now deciding what to have.



So what did I go for? After darting from stall to stall, and back again, I opted for a pulled pork roll (brisket looked good too), slaw and the biggest pickle in the world from Little Blue Smokehouse. This was one hell of a feed for £6.



My studio mates mainly went for the very popular Troll's Pantry burger. They didn't let me have a bite but just LOOK AT IT.

Those days of the supermarket meal deal are over. Go, go, go!

Latest information of regualr and guest stalls and menus from www.facebook.com/streetdinerbrighton or @streetdiner

22 May 2013

NEW MENU REVIEW: Wagamama


Brighton has now accumulated a fair cluster of chain restaurants but the ratio still remains happily in favour of our independents. But there is space for the chains and the balance is good, ensuring there is something for everyone, including diners who need the safety net dining experience, and sometimes convenience, a chain can offer.

And some of them I have a lot of time for myself; Carluccio's is one of my usuals, mainly for the actual produce (my go-to polenta and grissini) but I have enjoyed quite a few good meals there, I love a great big bowl of cure-all Pho every now and then and also Jamie's Italian have fed me well too with great pasta, meats and a half decent burger.

But Wagamama is the one I have been to the most, it's around the corner from my studio so great for speedy, slurpy lunch breaks, and in a city where space really is a premium, it's one of the few places you can guarantee to be seated if you are with a group with no reservation. They are particularly brilliant it you have kids (yeah, yeah, boo hiss), with friendly staff who turn a blind eye to the mess (sorry!). They also have those fantastic Phil and Ted clip-on high chairs which were so good I bought one for Baby Foodie after using one there.

I've always found their entry-level Japanese inspired food really fresh, filling, relatively healthy (check the menu before you go as some items are really calorific) and good value. So I was really happy to be invited along to try their new Spring/Summer menu which is hitting the restaurants any time now.



It seems as if they are trying out a few new things to pep-up their menu a bit. We sampled quite a few dishes but my highlights were definitely the Miso Salads, dramatically flecked with black hijiki seaweed. This comes with chicken or salmon (both good) and loads of fresh, sweet peashoots, crunchy carrot and goma wakame seaweed. The dressing was a fiery wasabi miso mayonaise dressing. I normally opt for a salad here so this is right up my street.



Also good and screaming healthy is the glass noodle salad with a pile of edamame and afzuki beans, roast squash, rocket and again, some goma wakame seaweed. The dressing was an interesting avocado and wasabi one, bound with a little mayo I think. The portion was rather massive and filling too, bigging up your 5-a-day quota for sure.

The boys on the table seemed to like the beef lettuce wraps. They had a nice kick of heat in a barbecue sauce and served with soft red peppers an onions. I thought the curly endive was an interesting wrap choice, making it a bit tricky to eat, trying to tuck the wayward ends in your mouth, but gave it a nice crunchy texture.

They are also introducing some summer rolls, which personally I can take or leave at the best of times. I don't go crazy for the rubbery texture of rice paper but enjoyed the chicken ones (beef also available). I would have preferred a bit more heat in my dipping sauce though but the miso marinated chicken was beautifully tender.

I normally wash a Wagamama meal down with one of their juices and they have added two new ones which I sampled. The strawberry, apple, orange and mint version was lovely, like a fresh grown up milkshake alternative - would be great with a shot of vodka! They also have an Alphonso Mango juice too but you have to love texture in your drink for that one.

So, despite some changes, there are some things that are staying the same. For the die-hard Katsu Curry lovers, you can rest assured that it is still firmly on the menu.

www.wagamama.com
30 kensington street, off north road
brighton
BN1 4AJ

I was invited by Wagamamas to try the new menu.

14 May 2013

REVIEW: Plateau, Brighton


Plateau has a very good reputation in Brighton and I can't believe it has taken me this long to get here, having eaten at their more casual sister restaurant, Mange Tout, a few times. Even before we get to the French-focussed food there is a lot to like about Plateau; its intinate feel, industrial yet welcoming interior and dark and moody colours. A very stylish dining spot that doesn't try too hard.

It's worth turning up a bit ealier and making use of the small bar (or worth popping in just for that). There is a very good cockatil menu and decent list of Sussex sparkling wines to whet your whistle with. I hadn't tried any wines from the Davenport Vineyard and the Limney Blanc de Blanc was perfect to peruse the menu with.

This is a restaurant primarily for sharing, hence its namesake, but for those of you that don't/won't food share (and I know those people exist!) then main meal specials are on the board. You'll miss out though as there is plenty you'll want to try. You can either order a few of the "bites" or go for one of the "Plateau". As there were a few of us we opted for a starter each from the "bites" and a couple of the sharing platters. (Apologies for the horrid camera phone pictures which do no justice to the food.)



Although I rarely choose pasta when dining out, there was something about the Braised Shallot and Parmesan Ravioli £6 that called to me. The sweet, rich onion filling was wrapped in perfect pasta. It made me think differently about what I put in my filled pasta as this was so different. The light Créme Fraiche and Walnut was just enough to coat the pasta.



By this point I was impressed. But then the Plateau de Viandes rocked up which was a carnivores dream. At £28 it dips its toe in the pricey area but you do get a lot and the quality does justify the price tag. Essentially a refined selection of grilled meat, you get a soft, sweet piece of bavette steak, a couple of sausages, the best pork belly you will ever try, a little burger with succulent pulled pork and a thick slice of their home-made Boudin Noir, essentially black pudding. The accompanying lentils, garnishes and chutneys were perfect as well as the side of truffled fries with shavings of Pecorino (my favourite cheese ever) £4.50.

We also ordered a Plateau de Poissons Fumés, £15, which would make a great shared lunch for two with a bottle of wine in itself. We didn't get through all this as there was a generous portion each of smoked tuna loin (new to me), halibut and salmon with a mackerel paté served with decent toasted bread, olives and capers.

Desserts all sounded good, and in the spirit of our dinner so far, chose the Plateau Gourmand, a selection of desserts for £15. Aside from my pet hate of pointless mini milkshakes anyway, this one was served with a single straw (for a table of four?!), the rest was divine. Warm, soft little Pumpkin and Cinnamon Beignets, a delicate set Rosewater Custard with poached rhubarb, a Lime and Coconut Cheesecake with pineapple cubes served in a glass. The ice creams were as good as the desserts themselves, the booze soaked rum and raisin and the maple syrup and bacon ones particularly. 

Ugly people are clearly not hired here as the gorgeous staff are all as stylishly presented as the food and really friendly to boot.

Compared with the more miss than hit experiences I've had at Mange Tout, everything about Plateau is better. It is more expensive but with everything considered, is far better value for money and one of the better restaurants in the city.

I liked it so much I went back a few days later for lunch. 3 "bites" (smoked salmon, chorizo with lentils and goat's curd with beetroot) came to about £12 (shown at top of post). Sling in a basket of bread and a couple of glasses of good red wine made for a perfect meal.

Yup. J'Adore.

Plateau
1 Bartholowmews
Brighton BN1 1HG

On a side note, this is one of those small details that I can't believe I haven't seen before. The total bill, total was also shown divvied up for groups and cheap-ass dates. Genius.

06 May 2013

My little black book of Brighton eating and drinking spots / interview with WOW247




I've been meaning to do a "Best of Brighton" post for a while now, with my handful of favourite spots I go back to again and again. One of those many things on my to-do that I needed a kick up the butt to get done. Anyway, an interview with listings site WOW247 was indeed just that so have a read here: www.wow247.co.uk/blog

There is even a little map so, I dunno, do a crawl of the places which would be my idea of heaven, although I would strongly suggest wearing elasticated waistbands and actioning over a few days.


View Brighton dining in a larger map

My little black book for Brighton eating and drinking features:

The Chilli Pickle
Sam’s of Brighton
The Gingerman Group
Plateau
The Little Fish Market Restaurant
Riddle & Finns
Julien Plumart Salon du The
Iydea
Terre a Terre
Boho Gelato
Ridgeview Wines (Grosvenor Blanc De Blancs)

01 May 2013

DESIGN: Fruit illustrations by Christopher Dina

Sometimes designers like to blow off a little steam after a day's work by designing even more stuff. Yeah, I don't get us either. Anyway, lovely self-initiated fruit illustration project by Christopher Dina.






EVENT: Sam's of Brighton pop-up at the Spiegeltent Garden, 3rd May - 2nd June 2013



A perfect combination for me is when food and interesting locations collide. One of Brighton's fantastic restaurants, Sam's of Brighton, will be operating a pop-up in the beautiful Spiegeltent's garden bar, throughout the entire Brighton Fringe Festival. You can sample Sam's classic style of food which champions local produce. At £30 for 4 courses, it's pretty good value too.

And to boost flagging energy for more dancing and festival fever he'll be serving up his South Downs Minted Lamb Burgers in the evening too. And I can tell you they are worth sampling.

Sam's at the Spiegeltent is open every night throughout the festival from the 3rd May - 2nd June.


For other events on visit The Brighton Festival and the Brighton Fringe.

Image of the Spiegeltent from The Brighton Festival - Note the pop-up will be in the tented bar area outside.

25 April 2013

REVIEW: Bill's Produce Store, Brighton


There once was a day where Bill's Produce Store was hot, with streams of queues, largely for their breakfasts, winding out from the door. Then it all got a bit unsexy with a big buy-out and Disneyfication of the brand across sites around the country, diluting what was so special about Bill's and here we are today.

If I'm honest, I've steered clear of the Brighton branch for a number of years now. But, and I kid you not, was enticed back by hearing how many highchairs they had available. Really. There will be those of you scoffing at this and those sighing and nodding in understanding. And highchairs aplenty they have. They were also still quite busy. People seem to be talking about Bill's again now.

Anyway, the menu remains varied and enticing with plenty of daily changing specials to keep your interest but the Bill's classics are still worth a look.



The legendary fish finger sandwich really deserves its status. There is a time and a place for the perfect rectangular fingers from the Captain, but these were home-made, soft flaky fish in a perfectly crunchy jacket. Lovely, crisp toasted bread, not too thick, not too thin. Not too much sauce, not too little. I liked the rocket in there. Yeah a darn good sarnie, and if you think a few of the pubs in the area do a frozen packet version with crisps for around the £6, then this Gucci version is bargainous at £8.50.

Burgers, both beef and the halloumi and hummus are always nicely presented and make a decent, filling lunch option.

But really, breakfasts are what made Bill's name and this is still one of the best ones in town. Aside from the contentious serving of the bread under everything, all the parts of the full breakfast were well cooked, no soggy mushrooms or tinned tomatoes here. The bacon and sausage are particularly good quality. I think bubble & squeak really belongs to a breakfast and love it, even if the extra £1.50 was bordering on a bit steep for what was essentially a bit of mashed potato. I couldn't see much cabbage in there if any.

Service can be awkward. Recently on one occasion we had to prompt our order being taken, then the order took ages and then we had to wait ages for the bill and yadda yadda. Breakfast orders tend to be smoother and speedier. Lunch and dinner are different timing beasts and it amazes me that some established restaurants still miss the mark on it. Lunch needs to be speedier, epecially with workers, families etc and dinner relaxed. Not rocket science is it? One other thing that has irked me over my last few visits (and many others judging by Twitter) is that some staff seem to be a bit iffy, particularly with kids (nose ring girl with your rolling eyes, I'm looking at you.) Luckily, on the whole, they are a friendly bunch.

The food produce for sale has become a sort of wallpaper. No prices and little information means few people will purchase it but nice to see thay still have those lovely Spanish oil cakes I love. The fresh produce has gone too.



One thing I do like about Bill's is the interior in a former bus depot. The chilly breeze coming from the front door has been sorted with a big, thick curtain and the open, industial space is very unique in the area.

And although it has lost it's initial sparkle and if some of the staff buck their ideas up, there's still a place for our old mate Bill's, certainly in Brighton anyway.

Bill's
The Depot, 100 North Rd, Brighton, East Sussex BN1 1YE